300 
DON COSSACKS, 
C xn P " £ ave U P entirely to our use. It was pleasantly 
— / situate, above the Don, with an open covered 
arcade, or wooden gallery : in this gallery we 
breakfasted and dined, while we remained. His 
cave of provisions was in the court-yard ; and 
he made his wife and daughters open it for our 
use. We had the curiosity to descend into this 
place. It was floored with ice ; upon which we 
saw sterlet from the Don, game, and other 
luxuries. The house was perfectly clean and 
comfortable ; so much so, that we could not 
resist the pressing invitation made to us of 
staying a short time, to study the manners of 
the Cossacks, in a town nearly as large as their 
capital. 
It was amusing to observe the temporary re- 
specttheypaid toth & Ataman. If he convened any 
of the inhabitants on business, however trivial, 
they made their obeisance before him, standing 
bareheaded, as in the presence of a Sovereign : 
but the moment the assembly was dissolved, he 
passed unheeded among them, receiving no 
greater mark of respect than any of the other 
Cossacks. It is an office to which the election is 
annual; but if an Ataman be particularly popular, 
he may retain his station, by re-election, during 
many years. This however does not often 
happen. Our host was in his^rif year, and his 
