DON COSSACKS. 
324 
chap, menled to a considerable river. As we drew 
■ ' ^ near, its opposite banks rose considerably higher 
than the ordinary appearance of the country 
with fine clusters of trees. Before we arrived 
at Acenovshaia, the country was even moun- 
tainous. On its western side we beheld a neat 
village, called Jernvchaia, pleasingly situate 
beneath the hills, with a new and handsome 
church. Indeed, the churches are everywhere 
good, and much superior to what we find in our 
country villages in England, both as to archi- 
tecture and interior decoration. At the top of 
the mountainous elevation on the western side 
of the river, stood one of the largest of those 
tumuli which abound over all this country. 
They become more numerous, and appear of 
greater magnitude, nearer to the Don and to the 
Sea of Azof. Finding the water clear, and the 
current rapid, we had the opportunity of bathing; 
and recommend the practice to all travellers, 
as essential to the preservation of health'. 
Acenov- From Acenovshaia, we continued our route 
over steppes apparently destitute of any habi- 
tation. Dromedaries were feeding, the sole 
(1) Accrbi informed us, that by constant bathing he escaped the 
fever to which travellers are liable from the bad air and heat of 
Lapland during summer. 
