398 
VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
chap- inhabitants were derived from the Crimea. They 
— v — > had about four hundred shops : these were all 
placed in one great covered building, after the 
manner observed in Moscow. The towns near 
the mouths of the Don present the traveller 
with a novel and varied picture of society. He 
encounters half-a-dozen different nations and 
languages in the same number of minutes ; and 
each nation in its peculiar dress. As we ap- 
proached the Armenian settlement, we beheld 
all veiled, but those we caught a glimpse of were extremely beautiful. 
Their veils were very carelessly disposed, and they betrayed no timidity. 
The men arc also handsome ; but they have a Jewish expression in 
their coutenauec. The Russians declare they have all a natural un- 
pleasant odour, like that we attribute to the Jews. They dislike them 
greatly; and have a proverb, ‘Two Jews equal one Armenian ; two 
Armenians one Greek; two Greeks, one Devil.' The Armenians, it is 
well known, are a very favoured sect by the Russian Government; and 
many of the noblest families have a mixture of their blood. Of these 
are Dolgorueky and Bagration, Joan the First gave the title of Knees 
to great numbers of Armenians, and permitted to all a free trade and 
settlement, with full liberty of worship, and even of making their 
processions openly. They have a magnificent church in Petersburg, 
and many in Astrachan and Casan. Their enterprize and activity are 
well known. Mr. Anderson of Petersburg told me he knew one who 
had been twice to Bassora, and once to Sarmacand and Tibet. 1 asked 
Abraamof if such journeys were common ; and if they could take an 
European with them, as their servant, or in any other disguise. He 
answered both these questions in the affirmative. He himself ha'd 
been in Georgia, and many parts of Turkey, hut never farther. We 
observed several Mahometans, at least persons in green turbans, which 
no Armenian would wear.” Heber’s MS. Journal. 
As the green turban is a mark of high distinction in Turkey , and the 
Armenians of Nakhtshivan arc under no fear of offending Mohammedans, 
perhaps they are worn merely in consequence of the freedom they 
here enjoy. 
