TO AZOF AND TAGANROG. 40 j 
chants 1 were contrasted with the coarse chap. 
XIV 
hides covering wild Tahtars, the long furred i 
pelisses of the Turks, the military, but simple, 
garb of the Cossacks, the uncouth uniform of 
the Russian police, and the greasy trappings 
of the Calmuchs. 
We visited a Turkish coffee-house, the most 
favourite rendezvous of the inhabitants. On 
the right hand as we entered, and upon a raised 
floor like the counters used by English tai- 
lors, were squatted a number of merchants, 
reclining upon cushions, with long pipes in 
their hands, smoking, and drinking coffee. As 
we joined the party, we were presented, ac- 
cording to the usual custom, with kindled pipes 
(having tubes made of the wood of the cherry- 
tree, tipped with amber), a small cup of coffee, 
and a bit of wood of aloes ; this, being put 
into the bowl of each pipe, exhaled a refreshing 
and pleasing fragrance. In a corner of the 
(l) The costume of the Armenian women of Astrakhan is the richest 
in Russia. It is surprising that they sustain the weight of their dress. 
The first, or inner robe, is of silk and gold ; the second, of black 
velvet, heavily laden with gold and pearls. The third, or outer vest, 
*s almost of massive gold, in ponderous embroidery, with large gold 
knobs, gold buttons, gold tassels, gold fringe, &c. Ac. The turban 
18 white, hangs over the left shoulder, and conceals the face, except 
the nose and eyes. The only hair disclosed is often false ; two thick 
locks, one on each side, being brought in front before the cars. 
