418 VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, 
chap, the inhabitants of Azof would see no faces 
xiv. , „ , . 
j except those of their own garrison ; conse- 
quently, the most trivial novelties were regarded 
with transport, and the coming of strangers 
was considered as an event of more than usual 
importance. We found them lost in indolence 
and wretchedness, badly supplied with provi- 
sions, and destitute even of wholesome water. 
The suspicious inquiries, and the insidious arti- 
fices, commonly practised by Russians in their 
reception of foreigners, were for once laid 
aside: but in their place were substituted bois- 
terous greetings, and the most troublesome 
importunities. Our appearance at this time 
was certainly rather calculated to excite cu- 
riosity. We had not less than four large bolacs 1 
living constantly in the carriage, whose ravages 
were visibly displayed in all parts of its lining ; 
for there is hardly any thing these animals 
will not endeavour to devour. Our interpre- 
ter, a Greek, the sallowest of his race, wore 
a strange dress, in which the various habits of 
Russians, of Cossacks, of Tahtars, and of the 
people of his own country, were singularly 
blended. Our wardrobe, scarcely less remark- 
able, betrayed evident marks of the casualties 
(l) See pp. 325 — 328. 
