we had to cross a huge rift in the mountain slope, and 
descend down an indescribable track in order to ascend an 
equally bad one on the other side. We gained the rock 
shelter and kindled a lire, and wondered how the pack 
animals with their cumbersome loads would manage to 
cross this rift, beset with boulders and huge rocks. Soon 
however we heard the voices of the arrearos, and from 
their forcible language we knew that they wei-e having an 
awful time goading the animals up this difficult trail. 
We did not allow them to stop here, as we knew 
that we were a long way off from Termales, the posada 
which was our objective on the other side of the mountain. 
From this point we had a further steep climb to pass the 
last ridge which has to be crossed before the descent com- 
mences. This we reached at about 3 p.m., and here 
again we had an excellent view of the Nevada. Gaining 
the summit of this ridge we met with a very strong, cold 
breeze, and passing over the sand drifts known as 
Arenales, we soon found ourselves in paramos of a distinct 
class. Here we observed that the frailejon was less in 
evidence, and that the pdramos formed grazing lands of 
a superior quality to anything we had seen on the other 
side. We relieved our caravan of the unburdened 
animals they were driving, in order that they might make 
more headway, and drove tliem along in front of us. We 
hastened on towards Termales, recalling the story we 
us over the hot springs to the kitchen door, where a 
welcome fire was burning. 
Our thoughts then turned to our caravan, but we knew 
that our men could not reach Termales that night, as we 
had left them a long way behind. After drying ourselves 
at tlie fire, and partaking of a scanty meal, we retired for 
the night ; not, however, to sleep, as our blankets were on 
the paramo, and we were obliged to pass the night on a 
bare wooden bedstead, and the intense cold was only 
varied by the constant dripping of icy cold water, which 
condensed on the wooden ceiling above. 
The caravan did not turn up till nearly noon on the 
following day ; the men, mules and loads were covered in 
mud and told the tale of suffering that they had gone 
througli. They had been overtaken in a fog and were 
obliged to spend the night in the open /iri/m/z/o without 
any shelter whatever. I subsequently discovered that the 
small supply of liquor which we carried as medicinal 
luxuries had served to impart bodily heat and protect 
them somewhat from the penetrating cold. Even an 
arrearo does not hesitate, when in a difficult position, to 
apply such remedies as may be at hand, especially if they 
be the property of his patron !' The mules had wandered 
back on the trail during the night, and much time had 
been lost in overtaking them. We saw, of course, at a 
glance that there was no hope of proceeding that day to 
Fig. III. — Term.vles. 
had been told of a person who got benighted on the 
paramo with his son, and who, fearing death from 
exposure, made his will in the night. We pushed on over 
a terrible road, rain and fog set in, and we lost the 
horses we were driving. We however continued, not 
knowing whither we were going, but trusting to our 
horses for knowledge of the route. At about 7 p.m., we 
found we were getting near Termales, from the smell 
of sulphur which the hot springs emitted. After much 
shouting, the owner of the posada came out, and lighted 
Manizales : there was, however, no meat in the larder at 
Termales, but the purchase of a sheep overcame all 
immediate difficulties. 
We spent the day collecting plants and botanical 
material, there being much of interest in the neighbour- 
hood. We further took the precaution of engaging one 
of the bedrooms situated over the hot springs, in order to 
avoid a repetition of the previous night’s experience of 
the cold bedroom and dripping roof. The whole of this 
‘ Master. 
7 
