or snow-covcrecl mountains. From the point we left in 
the morning, the vegetation gradually became sparser and 
the growth smaller. The frailejoii disappeared altogether, 
to be replaced however by the frailejoii bhvicoj one of 
the most fascinating plants of the upper reaches. It is 
covered with an exceedingly dense coat of white woolly 
hairs ; I know of no plant so well protected against the 
cold as this most remarkable plant. As soon, however, as 
snow is reached, the plants become scarcer, until hnally 
there is nothing save a few lichens. One of the highest 
of the flowering plants is a Cruciferous species, evidently 
an Arahis, this being a white and yellow variety. 
Another interesting plant of the higher reaches is a 
shrubby Lycofodiad of erect habit, a representative of one 
of the earlier forms of vegetation. 
As we neared the glaciers, we noticed that the air was 
laden with a strong smell of sulphur, though we did not 
ascertain whether it came from a fissure in the earth or 
from a sulphur spring. We reached on horseback the 
snow line, and here we dismounted and climbed as far as 
it was possible to do so without climbing apparatus up 
the glacier to about 5,500 metres above the sea-level. 
Here and there were deep crevices in the great mountain 
of ice, down which we had to be careful not to slip. At 
last we reached a cleft on the glacier, from which we 
were able to gaze down on the little town of Murillo, and 
obtain a line view of the country side. This vision, 
however, was only for a few minutes, for the rolling mists 
coming up over the mountain soon obscured our view, 
and indicated to us that it was time to descend and regain 
our track. 
We retraced our steps to where we had left our horses, 
which being cnlciilaiios - and not accustomed to the cold, to 
say nothing of the blinding vision of the snow-covered 
mountain, were glad enough to withdraw from the 
strange scene. 
Many have come a long distance to make this excursion, 
and have not even been able to get a glimpse of the 
glaciers. From the moment however we rounded the 
first pinnacle we obtained a clear view of the whole snow- 
covered range, and it remained clear until we gained the 
cleft from which we obtained the view of Murillo, when 
the mists rolled up the mountain. Had we been half-an- 
hour later we should have seen nothing. We therefore 
congratulated ourselves on our good fortune, and having 
accomplished our object, returned that same day to Murillo, 
where we arranged our collections and made preparations 
for the journey across the paramo to Manizales. 
Need of Transport Cable. 
Before continuing the description of our journey, I 
would like to draw special attention to the fertility of the 
central zone of the Magdalena slope of this Cordillera, and 
to the possibilities of developing this important region. 
I have already remarked on the importance of the lower- 
central part of this zone in respect of coffee cultivation, a 
I'egion capable of very considerable expansion in this and 
other agricultural industries. The upper-central part of 
this zone, however, has a cold climate, and the soil 
superior to many other similar regions of Colombia ; it is 
a region where white people can settle and live. There 
are few parts in Colombia where such line crops of 
potatoes are produced ; already it has assumed a crop of 
considerable importance, but there is room for expansion. 
Cattle thrive wonderfully well, and I was struck with the 
rich clover pastures, pasture which produces a milk 
exceedingly rich in cream and butter. Here is a region 
capable of great developments in potato, wheat and barley 
growing and cattle farming. The time is probably not 
far distant when this region will require a transport cable 
' While frailejon. - Hot country horses. 
to carry its agricultural produce to the Magdalena valley, 
and to bring up its trade goods and machinery. Such a 
cable would do much in expanding the potato industry. 
It is well known that potatoes grown in the interior of the 
country have very little keeping qualities at the Coast and 
in the hot country. This is due very largely to the fact 
that the potatoes, conveyed from the highlands on mule- 
back, become bruised by the constant jarring caused on 
the road, and so become readily attacked by diseases 
which rapidly spread. Potatoes carefully packed in 
barrels or boxes and conveyed by cable to San Lorenzo, 
would not be so bruised and would stand a better chance 
of competing with the imported American potatoes at the 
Coast. The system of transport by cable is one that 
ought to be more generally adopted in this country, 
especially in tlie mountainous regions, for the conveyance 
of produce to the main export routes. As I journeyed up 
this mountain slope, and passed enormous and continuous 
caravans of pack-mules laden with produce, I thought 
what a wonderful increase of production could be brought 
about if this vast force of men and mules employed 
in transport was applied instead to the cultivation and 
develojnnent of the land. 
In Ceylon, many an individual tea or rubber estate has 
its own cable for the transport of the tea or rubber, &c., 
from one part of the estate to another. The cheap transport 
of produce to the main export routes is one of the most 
important economic problems of this country, and a 
problem which should receive the serious attention of the 
departmental and municipal administrations of the country. 
The important Mariquita-Manizales cable, or rather the 
section of it that is completed, is already demonstrating 
the value of such a method of transport on these 
Cordilleras. 
Crossing the Paramo of Ruiz. 
On October 25th, we set out from Murillo with the 
intention of spending the night at Boqueroncito, so that 
we could make an early start the next morning to cross 
this mucli-dreaded paramo. We took with us a vagucano 
and animals accustomed to the journey. We found 
Pedro, the owner of the little house at Boqueroncito who 
had accompanied us up the mountain, was away at 
Manizales. His genial wife however accorded us a room, 
and assisted our cook in the preparation of our evening 
meal. We found Boqueroncito so cold that we were 
obliged to seek the warmth of the kitchen fire ; at 7 a.m. 
on the following morning our tliermometer registered 
5° C. From the kitchen door we had a magnificent view 
of the Nevada. Neither on our previous journey up, nor 
on our return journey down, did we see anytliing of the 
Nevada from this point. We hoped that Pedro would 
have returned that evening to accompany us across the 
paramo in the morning, but shortly after sunset his wife 
looked out across the paramo and then with an air of 
disappointment told us that Pedro would not return that 
night. 
In spite of our intention to start early, the arrearo 
found excuses for delay and it was nearly 9 o’clock before 
we left Boqueroncito. We did not accompany our 
caravan, having an additional vaqueaiio, who took us a 
shorter route ; this we regretted having taken after sinking 
down with our horses in the morass and bogs, several 
times, and finding difficulty in extricating ourselves. We 
journe^-ed on for three hours before we regained the 
main track, and from the absence of fresh footprints we 
gathered that our caravan had not passed. We waited at 
a lovely cascade for nearly two hours, watching the mists 
roll up the mountain and pass over, before sighting our 
caravan. Then we continued our journey to await 
them at a rock shelter for lunch. To reach this shelter 
6 
