September i, 1877.] 
271 
THE 
MissouRT 
GEORGE 
GARDENERS' 
CHRONICLE, 
loosely wind the shoots will be found sufficient. 
Tetratheca verticillata is another easily managed, 
almost continuous-flowering plant of moderate growth ; 
its distinct, non-formal habit and equally distinct 
freely produced flowers alike fit it for standing in 
front of larger subjects in the greenhouse and con- 
servatory. Plants that were slightly cut back after 
the spring blooming will again now be in full flower 
and continue for some weeks ; if placed in a con- 
servatory they should have a light situation. 
Phoenocoma prolifera.— Plants that set their blooms 
late will for some time yet be fresh and effective, but 
when employed for conservatory decoration care must 
be taken that the flowers are not wetted should the 
syringe be used, or they will at once turn mouldy. 
Croweas will now be fast coming into bloom, and will 
keep on if well managed almost to the end 
of the year : they are somewhat subject to scale, and 
before the flowers open the insects should be removed 
j by sponging, or else they soon get the leaves into 
such a dirty condition as to mar the appearance of the 
plants. The yellow flowered Cassia corymbosa will, 
from the uncommon colour of its blooms amongst 
I hard-wooded plants, and its long continued flowering, 
j be a useful addition to the conservatory ; whilst here 
j it will bear standing in positions where it will receive 
j less light than most things. Desfontainea spinosa, 
grown in pots, and that has been exposed in the open 
air through the season, will now begin to open 
its attractive pendent, long-enduring flowers. It 
likewise, for many weeks, may be stood close to, 
or under, other larger glowing subjects. The red- 
flowered Leschenaultia formosa and L. intermedia 
are amongst the most useful small plants that can be 
used for standing on brackets, or anywhere near the 
front of conservatories, yet how se.ldom do we now 
see them. They keep on blooming incessantly almost 
the whole year round. There are few things more 
easily grown. The principal matter to attend to is 
not to let them get affected with greenfly, to which 
they are somewhat liable, and on them it attains 
so small a size as to often escape detection. 
Where Witsenia corymbosa is grown into moderate 
sized specimens, its exquisite blue flowers will now be 
produced in succession for many weeks ; this plant also 
bears a confined situation without suffering much injury 
whilst it is blooming. The above are a few hard- 
wooded plants that give variety for conservatory 
decoration during the autumn months, yet in the too 
general disposition evinced now to use a preponderance 
of ornamental leaved subjects with few flowering 
things to assist them except the easiest grown soft- 
wooded plants, there'are numbers of the most deserving 
old favourites lost sight of. The want of variety in 
the species of plants now generally met with through 
the autumn months in greenhouses and conservatories 
rob these structures of one-half the interest that would 
be attached to them were greater variety employed. 
Mandevilla suaveolens. — Where this most useful 
and fragrant climber is grown it will either now be in 
flower or shortly begin to open ; the reason why it 
does not succeed with many people is through its 
leaves becoming a prey to red-spider, to which 
it is more subject than many things ; neverthe- 
less from its distinct and beautiful character it should 
not be discarded on this account, as if well washed 
with the engine or syringe once a week it can be 
kept perfectly clean. It forms a charming contrast to 
Lapageria rosea, and where it has attained sufficient 
strength will keep on blooming till the middle of 
October or later. The use of the syringe should be 
continued whilst in flower so long as there is solar 
heat enough to give vitality to the ins.ects. 
Heaths.— Any plants of these that have deficient 
root-room should at once be potted. The principal 
advantage derivable from moving Heaths at this time 
-in preference to the summer immediately after 
blooming; is that they are much less likely to suffer 
from the effects of the operation than when it is 
carried out whilst the weather is hot ; this is more 
especially the case when the balls of the plants are 
very full of roots, and consequently have become 
matted to a considerable extent against the sides of 
the pots. Do not by any means disturb the roots 
further than removing the drainage from the bottom, 
and ram the new soil so as to make it thoroughly 
solid. When the potting is completed at once place 
them in a pit, or house, where they can be kept a little 
close for two or three weeks, but if the operation is 
carefully performed there will be no occasion for 
shading unless the weather is more than usually 
bright, as from the moist condition of the air in most 
parts of the country, consequent upon the recent 
more than ordinary rainfall we have had, they will not 
suffer as during a drier time. T. Baines, 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Pines. — The advent of the autumnal months, with 
the concurrent atmospherical changes which naturally 
arise, will necessary entail more diligence in the way 
of airing the plants in this department, and not only 
so, but more foresight will also be needful towards 
sustaining with regularity a proper degree of heat in 
the houses when that arising from natural sources is 
defective. In the case of this particular section of 
plants, at this season, the greater part of them will 
be in a very active state of growth and full of vigour. 
Under such circumstances every proper means should 
be taken advantage of to harden and consolidate it 
before the short dull days of winter arrive, and par- 
ticular care should be exercised so as to avoid extreme 
variableness of temperature in the houses, as this is 
in general somewhat detrimental to the plants, and 
particularly so with regard to those which are not 
wanted to show fruit yet, its effects oftentimes resulting 
in starting the fruit prematurely. Every care should con- 
sequently be given to this matter, especially in relation 
to plants of the Queen variety, as if this section start 
into fruit at this period of the year it is disastrous, in- 
asmuch as they are not suitable for the purpose, and, 
moreover, in point of quality at the time they would 
ripen would not be at all comparable to other more suit- 
able kinds for that purpose at that period. Assuming 
that at an early date all the fruiting plants will be 
brought together where they can have a good supply 
of heat and plenty of sunshine when its exists, with a 
corresponding amount of moisture supplied about the 
house to keep its temperature genial and invigorating — 
at 75 0 daily, by fire-heat 90° at the roots, 8o° to 90°by 
sunshine, with air on the house, and 70° at night — 
remove all the suckers from the plants before they 
get large, save one for stock, and keep the fruit free 
from moisture during the flowering process. The 
set of plants which is intended to succeed the fore- 
going should consist* for the most part of the Queen 
variety, as this sort is eminently suitable for the pur- 
pose. These plants should receive careful treatment 
during the period of rest, which should terminate 
about the middle of November next. _ For the present 
about 68° at night as a mean should rule, with 5 0 
more daily if required by fire- heat, and 8o° at the 
roots constantly. Open the house slightly at from 
75° to 8o°, and freely ventilate at the latter degree, 
closing up the house finally for the day at 76°. If 
during very fine weather the axils of the leaves become 
dry give a slight sprinkling overhead with the syringe, 
but avoid having a superabundance of moisture con- 
stantly in the house. In the case of later plants 
which are to be kept growing on for another month or 
six weeks, a temperature slightly in advance of the 
preceding temperatures should be permitted with an 
increased amount of moisture in the house, and those 
plants which are to be wintered in 7 or 8-inch pots 
need only be slowly advanced. G. T. Miles , Wycombe 
Abbey . 
Orchard House.— All the early and midseason 
Peaches and Nectarines'from which the fruit has been 
gathered, may be removed to the open air. If infested 
with any kind of insects let them be thoroughly 
cleansed at once, and afterwards keep the foliage clean 
by means of the syringe or garden engine on fine 
evenings. Early in September, when the foliage 
shows signs of ripening, the roots should be examined, 
and if repotting is necessary the operation may be 
performed without delay. Guard against large shifts, 
as medium-sized pots well filled with roots always 
give the best crops of fruit. Trees in pots sufficiently 
large may have a large portion of the old soil 
removed, the roots shortened back, and be returned 
to clean pots of the size they now occupy. In potting 
fruit trees, perfect drainage must be secured. Strong 
turfy loam from the limestone, with a liberal admix- 
ture of burnt earth, or old mortar and bone-dust, will 
form a suitable compost ; use it in a dry state, and 
ram firmly into the pots, as for Melons. - Give suffi- 
cient water to encourage the formation of new roots, 
and expose the pots to the genial influence of autumn 
sunshine. Having disposed of the early batch, a re- 
arrangement of the house will be necessary and bene- 
ficial to the late kinds, which may be set out thinner. 
Remove all young growths, and turn aside old leaves 
which in any way interfere with the colouring of 
the fruit, and secure ripe wood for another season by 
keeping the trees under glass until the leaves fall. 
Encourage Figs now ripening with heat, liberal ven- 
tilation, and full exposure of the fiuit to the sun. 
Guard against atmospheric moisture, but give liberal 
supplies of moisture to the roots. Examine Cherries 
which have been some time out-of-doors, and provid- 
ing they do not require larger pots see that the 
drainage is perfect. Remove a portion of the surface 
soil well down the inside of the pots, and topdress 
with loam and bone-dust. 
Cucumbers. • — The wet, sunless weather has been 
against free, firm growth, and plants raised from cut- 
tings or seeds in the early part of August will be 
somewhat later than usual, and liable to flag under 
bright sunshine ; where this is the case a very slight 
shade may be laid on for a short time, until the foliage 
becomes stronger. Train straight up the trellis, 
remove all male blossoms, and defer stopping the 
points until three-fourths of the allotted space has 
been filled. Autumn-fruiting plants will require less 
shade and moisture as days decrease in length ; the 
young growths should also be kept thinner, and if all 
surplus or ill-placed fruit are removed the bearing 
period may be greatly extended* Make aRQther sow> 
ing for giving a supply of fruit from Christmas on- 
wards, and make the last sowing about the second 
week in this month for carrying on into the spring. 
Where the houses are divided into compartments the- 
raising of young plants should be regulated by the 
dates on which existing crops of Melons or summer 
Cucumbers are likely to be exhausted, young plants 
being always preferable to those which have become 
pot-bound. Push on the cleansing and painting as 
the pits are cleared, in order that there may be no 
delay when the time for planting arrives. If fermenting 
material is used for bottom-heat, no time should be 
lost in getting together a supply of Oak leaves and 
horse-dung, or, failing this, Oak bailc, which, having 
been prepared by fermenting and turning in a dry, 
open shed, may be used as a good substitute. If'. 
Coleman t Eastnor Castle. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The late rains have proved very acceptable in this 
part of the country, where we were beginning to suffer 
from the effects of long drought ; and where the 
necessary plantations of the various crops have been 
persistently carried out they will now grow away 
vigorously. Before they become too large it will 
be necessary to stir the soil deeply, and draw the 
earth up to the stems of any of the Brassica family 
requiring it. Buda Kale and Coleworts for spring 
may still be planted, but no time must be lost. A 
large breadth of the various sorts of Endive before 
recommended should now be got out at once ; this 
will form the main supply for autumn and early winter 
purposes and for storing, but unless a very severe 
winter sets in a plantation made later on, in ground 
not too richly manured, will be found better adapted 
for winter use ; but the ground for the present and 
largest plantation may be very liberally manured, 
in order to induce a free and constant growth. A 
large breadth of the various Lettuces should 
also be planted out at or. ce, and encouraged 
by liberal treatment. The Old Bath Brown Cos 
should enter largely into this crop, as it is the best for 
taking up and storing for winter use. Plants intended 
to stand through the winter should be left a while 
longer, but it is a good plan now to make a sowing on 
a warm sheltered border to stand through the winter 
for planting out in the spring. For this purpose the 
bed should be larger than usual, and the seed thinly 
scattered ; or if necessary they must be thinned out in 
good time, as the object is to secure a good short 
stocky growth of plant ; the Bath Cos and hardy 
green Cos are good sorts for this sowing. The tying 
of Endive and Lettuce for blanching will require 
attention, as it must only be performed when the 
plants are perfectly dry ; in catching weather this is 
sometimes neglected, and the result is a mass of 
putrescence inside when they come to be cut for use. 
Onions should now be ready for harvesting ; they 
should be taken to the store-room when perfectly dry, 
but as the ground will be wanted at once if the Onions 
are not ready they may be laid out in open sheds for 
a few days, and then stored. The ground should be 
cleared of rubbish, liberally manured, and trenched 
up two spits deep in readiness for Cabbages to stand 
through the winter. This in most cases is an 
important crop, and will require extra care in 
the manipulation. Let the ground remain roughly 
thrown up for a few days, then break it down 
level, and plant at 20 inches each way. This 
is quite near enough for the winter sorts; summer 
sorts may be planted nearer, as they are off and gone as 
soon as ready, and many plant the winter crop double 
thick and pull out every other plant for greens in the 
spring, but this practice is “ more honoured in the 
breach than in th’ observance,” as the greens are but 
poor things at the best, and the ground ought not to 
be robbed when succulent and tender-hearted 
Cabbages are required and appreciated. After select- 
ing all the best plants for the bed the remainder 
should be lifted, and pricked out rather closely in 
beds for stores to fill vacancies, and for early planting 
in spring. At the same time a bed should be sown 
soon to supplement them : these must remain in the 
seed-bed all the winter. Spinach beds for winter 
will now be ready for thinning out, which should be 
done before the plants get drawn. If the ground is 
good, and the plants likely to grow strong, 
from 10 inches to a foot is not too much to 
allow the plants. The earthing-up of Cardoons and 
Celery must now be diligently followed up in perfectly 
dry weather. At the same time plentiful applications 
of water and liquid manure must not be forgotten. 
This should not be poured down the centre of the 
ridges over the plants, but info the small trenches 
outside of the ridge. Turnip Radishes should now 
be sown every fortnight for two months. If a bed for 
very late Turnips is not sown not a day should be 
lost, and advancing crops of these should be con- 
stantly thinned out as scon as ready, and the ground 
stirred amongst them. Thin out autumn-sown Car- 
rots as soon as ready. Nothing weakens plants 
which have to stand the winter so much as leaving 
them drawn up weakly in the seed-bed. The only 
remedy is to thin in time. John Cox , Redleaj. 
Botanical 
copyright reserved garden 
cm 
