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CHAPTER VII. 
BAEEA DO EIO NEOEO AND THE SOLIm5eS. 
Appearance of the Eio Negro — -The city of Barra, its trade and its 
inhabitants — Journey up the Eio Negro — The Lingo a Geral — 
The umbrella bird — Mode of life of the Indians — Eeturn to Barra 
— Strangers in the city — Visit to the Solimoes — The Gapo — Mana- 
querey — Country life — Curl-crested Ara^aris — V ultures and Oncjas 
— rTobacco growing and manufacture — The Cow-fish — Senhor Bran- 
dao — A fishing party with Senhor Henrique — Letters from England. 
On the 31st of December, 1849, we arrived at the city 
of Barra on the Rio Negro. On the evening of the 30th 
the sun had set on the yellow Amazon, but we continued 
rowing till late at night, when we reached some rocks at 
the mouth of the Rio Negro, and caught some fine fish 
in the shallows. In the morning we looked with sur- 
prise at the wonderful change in the water around us. 
We might have fancied ourselves on the river Styx, for 
it was black as ink in every direction, except where the 
white sand, seen at the depth of a few feet through its 
dusky wave, appeared of a golden hue. The water itself 
is of a pale brown colour, the tinge being just perceptible 
M 2 
