164 
TRAVELS ON THE RIO NEGRO. [January, 
in a glass, while in deep water it appears jet black, and 
well deserves its name of Rio Negro — “black river.’’ 
We brought letters to Senhor Henrique Antony, an 
Italian gentleman settled here many years, and the prin- 
cipal merchant in the city ; who received us with such 
hearty hospitality as at once to make us feel at home. 
He gave us the use of two large rooms in a new house 
of his own not quite finished, and invited us to take our 
meals at his table. 
The city of Barra do Rio Negro is situated on the 
east bank of that river, about twelve miles above its 
junction with the Amazon. It is on uneven ground, about 
thirty feet above the high-water level, and there are two 
small streams or gullies running through it, where du- 
ring the wet season the w^ater rises to a considerable 
height, and across which are two w^ooden bridges. The 
streets are regularly laid out, but quite unpaved, much 
undulating, and full of holes, so that walking about at 
night is very unpleasant. The houses are generally of 
one story, with red-tiled roofs, brick floors, white- and 
yellow- washed waUs, and green doors and shutters ; and, 
when the sun shines, are pretty enough. The “ Barra,” or 
fort, is now represented by a fragment of wall and a 
mound of earth, and there are two churches, but both 
very poor and far inferior to that of Santarem. The po- 
pulation is five or six thousand, of which the greater part 
are Indians and half-breeds; in fact there is probably not 
a single person born in the place of pure European blood, j 
so completely have the Portuguese amalgamated with the 
Indians. The trade is chiefly in Brazil-nuts, salsaparilha- 
and fish ; and the imports are European cotton-goods of 
