1850.] NOSSA SENHORA DA GUIA. 209 
ing a delta at its mouth. During our voyage I had 
heard much of this river from Senhor L., who was an 
old trader up it, and well acquainted with the numerous 
tribes of uncivilized Indians which inhabit its banks, 
and with the countless cataracts and rapids which render 
its navigation so dangerous and toilsome. Above the 
Uaupes the Rio Negro was calm and placid, about a 
mile, or sometimes two to three miles, wide, and its 
waters blacker than ever. 
On the 24th of October, early in the morning, we 
reached the little village of Nossa Senhor a da Guia, 
where Senhor L. resided, and where he invited me to 
remain with him as long as I felt disposed. 
The village is situated on high ground sloping down 
suddenly to the river. It consists of a row of thatched 
mud-huts, some of them whitewashed, others the colour 
of the native earth. Immediately behind are some 
patches of low sandy ground, covered with a shrubby 
vegetation, and beyond is the virgin forest. Senhor 
L.’s house had wooden doors, and shutters to the win- 
dows, as had also one or two others. In fact Guia was 
once a very populous and decent village, though now as 
poor and miserable as all the others of the Rio Negro. 
Going up to the house I was introduced to Senhor L.’s 
family^ which consisted of two grown-up daughters, two 
young ones, and a little boy of eight years old. A good- 
looking “ mameluca,'’ or half-breed woman, of about 
thirty, was introduced as the ^‘mother of his younger 
children.” Senhor L. had informed me during the voyage 
that he did not patronize marriage, and thought every- 
body a great fool who did. He had illustrated the ad» 
p 
