318 TRAVELS ON THE Rio NEGRO. [September, ' 
I 
an opposite direction. Now tliere is a cross stream at j 
the bows, and a diagonal one at the stern, with a foam- ; 
ing Scylla on one side and a whirling Charybdis on the 
other. All depends upon the pilot, who, well acquainted | ^ 
with every sunken rock and dangerous whirlpool, steers j 
clear of all perils, — now directing the crew to pull hard, j . 
now to slacken, as circumstances require, and skil- 
fully preparing the canoe to receive the impetus of the ; 
cross currents that he sees abroad. I imagine that the 
neighbourhood of the arches of Old London Bridge, at I 
certain states of the tide, must have presented on a 
small scale somewhat similar dangers. When the river i 
is low, the descent is more perilous ; for, though the force i 
of the waters is not so great, they are so crammed with 
rocks in all stages of submersion, that to avoid them i, 
becomes a work requiring the greatest knowledge and I 
care on the part of the pilot. Having passed these 
much-dreaded rapids, we proceeded pleasantly to Sao ;] 
Joze, where I staid a day, to take out part of Senhor L.’s | 
cargo, and reload the canoe properly for the voyage to | 
Barra. 
j 
In the afternoon, a fine specimen of one of the smaller | 
species of alligator, or-Jacare, was brought in, and pre- 
parations were made to cut it up for supper. I however 
immediately determined to skin it, and requested to be 
allowed to do so, promising to get out the tail and body, ij 
for culinary purposes, in a very short time. After about I 
!! 
an hour’s hard work, I extracted the most meaty part of , 
the tail, which is considered the best ; and in another ij; 
hour delivered up the body, leaving the head and legs ^ if 
to be cleaned the next day in the canoe. The animal !> 
