324 
TRAVELS ON THE RIO NEGRO. \_September, 
at least, the greatest, and here the rarest of pleasures. | 
Mr. Spruce, as well as myself, much wished that we 
could ascend together ; but my canoe was too small to j 
accommodate us both, and my men were too few for his, j 
loaded, as it would be, with our combined cargoes. No ; 1 
men were to be obtained at Barra, for love or money. : ‘p 
Even the authorities, when they require to make some | 
journey on official business, are obliged, frequently, to I 
beg men of Senhor Henrique or some other negociante. | 
To such a state is this fine country reduced, by Brazilian | 
misrule and immorality ! 
Just as I was about to start, the Subdelegarde sent j 
to inform me I must take a passport, an annoyance I 
had quite forgotten. However, there was no remedy, as j 
the clerk does not like to lose his fee of a '' crusado.’' | 
I had first to get paper stamped (and the Stamp-office i 
was not open), and then to go the other end of the city ' 
to where the clerk lived, to get the passport. As every- 
thing was on board and all ready, this was a great bore, | 
and Senhor Henrique advised me to go without a pass-. , | 
port, and he would send it after me. As I knew the h 
Subdelegarde would not send after me to fetch me back, 
I took his advice and started. Mr. S. came with me 
for a day’s trip, taking a couple of boys and a montaria i 
to return in. We had a fine wind, which took us across ‘ 
the great bays above Barra ; and about four in the after- ! 
noon we landed on a sandy beach, near which were a 
Here Mr. S. found some handsome 
new flowering shrubs and trees, and I obtained five spe- ^ J/ 
cimens of a small fish, a pacu new to me, so we both 
had work till supper-time ; after which meal we hung 
