CHURCH Off THK GUADELOUPE, MEXICO 
(.fixtraot from a letter to Mrs, Holmes) 
^ 
kt two o* clock Jackson and I set out for the Ohurch 
of Guadeloupe which lies on the north side of the valley 
against the foot-hills a mile or two from the city. We took 
the street cars up to the Grand Plaza thence by another line 
out across the flat fields to the north. It was a charming 
ride. The street cars here are well managed. The cars them- 
selves are shipped from Hew York or some other northern city 
in our purest Castilian if this were the car for Guadeloupe 
and were answered ”Si, Senor. ,T We rattled along at a break- 
neck pace drawn by two mules, first down a picturesque street 
with old palaces and churches on all hands with markets and 
pulque shops and all sorts of stores open. The streets were 
lined with people — some dressed in our own fashion, but 
nearly all in the simple costume of the country. The poorer 
nearly all are poor — looking awfully like Indians, the 
which they really are, and hardly less rough, dirty and 
pitiful than the wildest pai-ute. They are sitting on the 
side walks, in the streets and in the gutter, talking, pre- 
paring the rude tortillas or cakes or selling some small 
articles to the passerby. They grind their corn on a big 
’’metate ' 1 like the pueblo Indians, knead their dough and bake 
the greasy garlicky mess right Yrtiere they sit. The men wear 
a shirt, a broad straw hat and loose pants of white muslin. 
and the tracks are extremely well 
