XII 
Chapter XIV. On the lower Waikato; from Auckland to Taupiri. 
Bush travelling in New Zealand. — Supply of provisions. — Other articles of equip- 
ment. — Fern and flax. — Departure from Auckland. — Drury Hotel. — Mangatawhiri. 
— Sueking pigs. — Thus far and no farther. — Our embarkation. — The Waikato, 
the main artery of the country. — Maori- politics. — Boat-songs. — Tiutiu. — Pukatea. 
— Eels. — Lake Wangape. — The Pah Rangiriri. — Lake Walk are. — The river-island 
Taipouri. — Brown coal at Kupakupa, — The Taupiri range. — The mission station 
on the Taupiri , . . 
Chapter XV. The Waipa and the West Coast. 
The Taupiri. — The Middle Waikato Basin. — Keeping the Sabbath. — Waikato 
and Waipa. — Residence of the Maori King. — The chief Takerei. — Terraces. — Wha- 
tawhata. — The Wesleyan Mission station Kopua. — A Maori- wedding. — Kakepuku. 
— To Whaingaroa. — Whaingaroa Harbour. — The township of Raglan. — Mount 
Karioi. — The Aotea Harbour. — The Kawhia Harbour. — Ammonites and Belemnites. 
— The New Zealand Helvetia. — A Northumberlander. — Roads to the Waipa. — The 
bush. — Back to the Waipa * • 305 
Chapter XVI. Prom the Waipa through the Mokau and Tukua 
districts to Lake Taupo. 
On the upper Waipa. — Terrace-formation. — Orahiri. — Hangatiki. — Caves with 
Moa-bones. — The stalactite-cave Te ana Uriuri. — Sabbath breaking punished. — 
Mangawhitikau. — Limestone plateau with caves, subterraneous river passages, and 
funnel-shaped holes. — Puke Aruhe. — Stay at Piopio; rubbing of noses. — Moa-bones. 
— Wairere Rapids. — Pukewhau. — The Mokau river. — Bush and swamp. — A wood- 
colony. — Maori cooking-stove. — Tapuiwahine mountain. — In the Olmra and Onga- 
ruhe valley. — On the summit of the Ngariha. — View of Tongariro and Ruapahu. — 
A Tangi in Petania. — Puketapu. — Nothing but bush. — Pumice-stone plateau Moe- 
rangi. — Arrival at Lake Taupo 333 
Chapter XVII. Lake Taupo, Tongariro and Ruapahu. 
Rev. Mr. Grace. — The Maori-Chief Te Heuheu. — Lake Taupo. — Volcanic cones at 
the South shore. — Hot springs of Te Rapa and Tokanu. — Legend of the Chief Nga- 
tiroirangi and his slave Ngaurulioe. — The Waikato-Delta. — The Volcano Tongariro, 
its cones and craters. — Mr. Dyson's ascent of the Tongariro. — Legends of the con- 
flict between Tongariro and Taranaki. — Ruapahu the highest mountain of the North- 
Island. — Pumicestone-plateau. — Terraces. — Climate of the Taupo-country. — Legend 
of Horomatangi, — Population. — Fauna. — The East-shore of the lake. — Rhyolite. 
— Outlet of the Waikato 36(. 
Chapter XVIII. Ngawhas, and Puias; boiling springs, solfataras 
and fumaroles. 
The country between lake Taupo and the East Coast. — Analogy between the 
hot springs in New Zealand and Island. — Departure from Taupo. — The Karapiti 
fumarole. — Orakeikorako on the Waikato, and its geysers. — The Pairoa range and 
its fumaroles. — The boiling springs on the Waikiti. — Tropical ferns. — Rotokakalii. 
— Arrival at lake Tarawera. — Mr. and Mrs. Spencer. — The Tarawera mountain. 
The warm lake Rotomahana and its boiling springs. — Rotomakariri, the cold lake. 
