CHAPTER XYII. 
Lake Taupe, Tongariro and Ruapahu. 
Rev. Mr. Grace. — The Maori-Chief Te Heuheu. — Lake Taupo. — Volcanic cones at 
the South-shore. — Hot springs of Te Rapa and Tokanu. — The Waikato-Delta. — The 
Volcano Tongariro, its cones and craters. — Mr. Dyson’s ascent of the Tongariro. — Legends 
of the conflict between Tongariro and Taranaki. — Ruapahu the highest mountain of the 
North-Island. — Pumicestone-plateau. Terraces. — Climate of the Taupo-country. — Legend of 
Horomatangi. — Population. — Fauna. — The East-shore of the lake. — Rhyolite. — Outlet 
of the Waikato. 
The name Taupo reminds me of one of the grandest natural 
sceneries, I have ever seen, and at same time of the generous 
hospitality of the Rev. Mr. Grace and his amiable family. The 
missionary’s house is only a few hundred yards distant from the 
Maori Pah Pukawa; picturesquely built against a bluff, upon a 
terrace 200 feet above the lake. Beneath its hospitable roof I 
passed five days, during which time I was engaged in sketching 
a detailed map of the lake. Mr. Grace, by virtue of his exact 
local knowledge, was of great assistance to me in this work; he 
accompanied me on my excursions , while the arrangements of the 
excellent lady of the house made us utterly forget, that we were 
sojourning in the remotest interior *of New Zealand. The picture 
of that happy family circle, blessed with a number of blooming 
children, was truly calculated to awaken the most grateful emotions. 
How oddly contrasted with this picture the Maori-character, such 
as it was represented with all its former pagan splendour in the 
neighbouring Pah in the person of the celebrated Maori-Cliieftain, 
Te Pleuheu! 
