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Long ago I had heard of the great and mighty Te Heuheu, 
residing in Pukawa at Lake Taupo. His name is known wherever 
the Maori-language is spoken; for he belongs to one of the oldest 
and most renowned noble families of the country, and is numbered 
among the heroes or demigods of his people. He had been pic- 
tured to me as a man of considerable talents, as the best and 
worst fellow at the same time , as proud , shrewd , generous , as a 
mysterious medley of modern civilization and ancient heathenism. 
I was curious to make his personal acquaintance , and had ar- 
ranged with my travelling companions to pay the dreaded potentate 
of the country a visit of respect and homage in all due form. 
Having employed , however , the first day of my stay , — on 
account of the fine weather, — for an excursion to the hot springs 
near Tokanu, it was not until the second day after my arrival 
at the lake, that I carried my purpose into execution. 
Mr. Grace accompanied me to the Pah. It is situated upon 
a peninsular projection into the lake, with an enclosure of strong 
palisades, through which two sliding gates give admittance. En- 
tering through one of the gates wo came to an oblong place at 
the upper end of which a sightly provision-house (Pataka) first 
attracted our attention. It was painted red, and based upon four 
round posts, to protect the provision-supplies stored within from 
the voracity of the rats. Its front was ornamented with extra- 
vagant carvings after the style of art peculiar to the Maoris. Neat 
flourishes and arabesque-like figures alternated upon the gable-field 
with grotesque, big-headed and big-eyed human forms. Opposite 
tho this Pataka stood an unsightly hut without any architectonic 
ornament whatever, but with a little porch beneath the protruding 
roof in front, as is customary in all Maori-huts of better quality, — 
it was Te Heuheu’s residence and in the verandah of that Maori- 
palace sat a man of stern and gloomy mien, wrapt in a dirty 
woollen blanket, — it was Te Heuheu himself. 
My reception at his hands was any thing but a gracious one. 
It was not until the missionary had spoken with the chieftain, that 
the latter condescended to extend his hand to me, inviting me, to 
