WE ASTONISH THE NATIVES. 
161 
ascend, of wondering over the strange secrets of electricity, 
or of witnessing the silent progress of a propeller-steamer, 
will have to reflect a moment before they can appreciate 
the feeling of alarmed curiosity which fills the semi- 
civilized or savage breast when for the first time it 
beholds such apparent miracles. In the present case, we 
had our sails furled, were steaming with anthracite coal, 
which made no smoke, and were running through a 
strong current and against a light breeze. There was 
nothing in the world to give ignorant minds the slightest 
clue as to how we got ahead : they were as much con- 
founded as we would have been to have seen an ox-cart 
going up-hill by itself. As we thus ascended the winding 
river, the villages which teemed along its banks poured 
forth their excited inhabitants to witness the strange spec- 
tacle, — men, women, and children, hurrying to the water's 
edge, watching our mysterious progress, and then return- 
ing slowly to their homes as if they had seen enough to 
think about for the next week. After vre had anchored, 
they approached us warily in their boats, refusing to 
come alongside, and keeping their eyes on our every 
movement. They were evidently in doubt as to our 
terrestrial origin, or rather as to that of the Old John. 
Finall}^, we landed at a village abreast of our anchorage, 
and they began to get more reconciled, closing around 
us in gre^t numbers and pointing to the ship in con- 
tinued wonder. They were evidently seeking informa- 
tion, which we could only impart by signs. 
While entering this river, Ave picked up a fishing-boat 
and compelled one of its owners to pilot us in ; and it 
was he who had anchored us ofi* this village, declaring 
11 
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