CHAPTER XV. 
HOW BRASS BUTTONS ARE VALUED IN JAPAN, AND HOW PARTRIDGES ARE 
THERE TRANSFORMED INTO SINGING-BIRDS — HOW WE VISITED A SEA- 
GOD’s temple, and how a GERMAN EXPLORER PREFERRED REMAINING 
OUTSIDE — now SOME AMERICANS LEANED ON COMMODORE PERRY^S 
TREATY, AND HOW IT GAVE WAY UNDER THEM. 
We found Ha-ko-da-di a very different place from Si- 
mo-da, — at least treble its size, and situated at the foot of 
a curved and towering promontory, which, joined to the 
main by a long low neck of land, forms one of the 
largest and finest harbours in the M’orld. 
We now turned our attention to the Greta, and several 
days wei'e devoted to transferring her cargo of coal to 
our exhausted bunkers and replenishing our supplies of 
provisions for the use of the crew. As for ourselves, — 
the officers, — there was no such luck in store. During 
this time we walked over most of the surrounding coun- 
try, to the infinite terror of old women and small chil- 
dren, and made daily hauls with our seine along the 
inner shore of the bay, to the great annoyance of the 
Japanese authorities and to owr own especial edification 
about meal-hours. 
During one of these walks, Hartman and myself bar- 
tered away a number of brass buttons for several articles 
of religious worship, and returned on board in high glee. 
The next day the doctor, while upon a similar excursion, 
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