CHAPTER XVI. 
WE PASS BEFOEE THE GREAT CITY OF MATSMAI, TO THE WONDER OF THE 
JAPANESE, CONTINUE TO THE NORTHWARD ALONG THE WEST COAST OF 
THE ISLAND OF JESSO, BEAT A JAPANESE OFFICER ON THE HEAD, AND 
FINALLY ARRIVE AT THE TOWN OF TOMARI, WHERE WE HAVE A GOOD 
LOOK AT THE AINU, OR “ HAIRY KURILES” — THE LAST OF JAPAN AND 
THE COMMENCEMENT OF A HEAVY FOG. 
It was on the 1st of July that we ended the survey 
spoken of in the last chapter, after which we continued 
along the west coast and anchored that night oft' the 
great city of Matsmai. There Tve found only an open 
roadstead, and Ave did not api»roach near enough to take 
interest in the appearance of either land or city. 
The running survey upon which we were engaged Avas 
in itself a probable violation of the treaty, and the cap- 
tain Avas naturally averse to any further infringement of 
it in the shape of going on shore, except for the purposes 
of Avooding ship or obtaining astronomical observations 
necessary to our work. He therefore, expecting some of 
us to make a terrestrial demonstration, and disliking to 
refuse the necessary permission, anchored several miles 
ott‘ evidently to discourage all shore-going parties; ami 
this must account for my passing Matsmai Avith only a 
few Avords. The same inconvenient thongh doubtless 
proper restriction, being to a greater or less extent con- 
tinued up the Avholo coast, deprived us of many oppor- 
tunities of observation and relaxation, AAdiicli, joined to 
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