THE “OLD JOHN” AGAIN ASTONISHES THE NATIVES. 29T 
large pagoda-like structure in particular, ivliicli, with its 
grounds, seemed to occupy the whole of the highest hiL, 
and which, from its imposing elevation, would make — pro- 
bably does make — an admirable signal-station. l*erched 
upon its very summit, the greensward, sprinkled here and 
there with shady groves, extended from it in every direc- 
tion until a white paling-fence, (it looked strange at first 
to see our well-known paling whitewashed fence in Japaii^) 
forming a circle of probably a mile in circumference 
around the base of the hill, seemed to bar its farther 
extent. 
In addition to this, I counted no less than four large 
temples or josh-houses, each having its grounds and 
groves, its greater or less elevation, and its neat paling- 
fence. It is a beautiful spot to look at; and, in spite of 
my experience at Si-mo-da and Ila-ko-da-di, I could not 
avoid thinking that it would bear a closer inspection as 
far as cleanliness was concerned. We passed along 
before Matsmai under low steam, carrying safe water 
well in with the beach, and watching through our glasses 
the excited natives who crowded the water's edge to see 
“the large junk that sailed with her sails furled.” Like 
the Chinamen on the Wan-chew River, it was “a huckle- 
berry above their persimmon.” 
Leaving the master, with an armed boat and his astro- 
nomical instruments, at the point making out from the 
west end of the city, the ship hei'self devoted the rest of 
the day (plus four hom*s of the night) to the examination 
of two islands on the southern horizon, and^ after return- 
ing for the boat, continued on to the northward with the 
first gleam of day. It was this kind of service which 
