198 
JOURNEY FROM 
At Hudia there is a remarkable hill, through which gypsum pro- 
trudes itself in almost every part ; it terminates in a conical mound 
of pure gypsum, so smooth as to have the appearance of ice, the 
diameter of the coije, at its base, being about thirty feet. We found 
the valleys between the hills very fertile, producing, among other 
flowers, a variety of wild geraniums, singularly mixed with a species 
of leek, which flourishes there in great abundance. The water was 
collected in a hollow between the hills, and having lately received 
a fresh supply from the rains, was found to be tolerably sweet. 
Neither its flavour nor its clearness were however much improved by 
the provident cares of our Arab conductors, who began to wash their 
caps and baracans in it before we were aware of their intentions ; 
and it may readily be supposed that these articles of dress, which 
were almost the only ones that our friends possessed, and which had 
certainly not been washed since they left Tripoly, could not be par- 
ticularly clean. 
With this water, however, we managed to commemorate Christmas 
day, which occurred while we were at Hudia, in a much better 
manner (so far as conviviahty was concerned) than we should have 
been able to do, had it fallen a few days later, in the barren, rocky 
country which ensued, where no water is to be found at all. It 
may be imagined by some that conviviahty and dirty water are 
by no means compatible with each other ; but when the necessaries 
of life become luxuries they will always be appreciated as such ; and 
there are many occasions on which they who might think it impos- 
sible to make merry without wine, would feel themselves both 
