472 
BULLETIN OP THE UNITED STATES FISH COMMISSION. 
fish. The vessel has either a tight cover or it is tied up with paper. When some of the pieces are 
taken out and there is not enough “tan liquor” in the vessel to cover the remaining pieces, either 
some more of this liquor is added or a sufficient amount of vinegar is used. 
Witli a view to softening the bones of small pickled fish so that they may be freely 
masticated, a method was introduced about thirty years ago in which the dressed fish 
are placed in a suitable receptacle with a mixture of vinegar, salt, cloves, and cayenne 
pepper. The receptacle is then closed and the contents subjected to a temperature 
of about 170° F. for 24 hours.* The acid of the vinegar neutralizes or dissolves the 
phosphate of lime and the heat serves to reduce the coherence of the particles of 
animal matter contained in the bones, so that the latter may be masticated and swal- 
lowed without inconvenience. This jirocess was used to a limited extent only and is 
no longer in vogue. 
PICKLED OYSTERS. 
In jnckling oysters, clams, mussels, etc., the mollusks are usually cooked a short 
period either before or after removal from the shell, cooled, and placed in glass jars or 
other receptacles with vinegar, spices, etc., according to the ideas of the preparer. 
A generation or two ago large quantities of pickled oysters were x>ut up for use in 
and about New York City, the consumption being especially large during the Christ- 
mas holidays; but their popularity has greatly decreased, and during recent years 
probably not over 50,000 have been pickled annually, mostly in New York City, to fill 
special orders. The choicest oysters are generally used. The process is as follows: 
The r.'iw oysters are removed from the shells in the usual manner, as much as practicable of the 
liquor being saved. The oysters, with their liquor, are boiled in an open kettle for 5 to 30 minutes, 
according to the length of time that will elapse before they are to be used. It is important that the 
boiling be reduced as much as practicable for good keeping, since the longer they are boiled the 
smaller and harder they become and the more difficult to flavor. When boiled sufficiently the oysters 
and liquor are separated, the former spread on shelves to cbol and the latter strained and mixed with 
sufficient vinegar to impart the flavor desired, to which may be added mace, lemon, and other flavoring 
ingredients, if desired. When both the oysters .and liquor are quite cool, they are combined and sealed 
up in glass jars or other suitable receptacles and stored in a cool place. If the cooling of the oysters 
and liquor after boiling bo not done separately, the oysters become soft and disintegrate, affecting both 
the appearance and keeping qualities. 
An objection to the above method of itickling is that when the oysters are cooked 
they become shriveled aud somewhat unsightly, and if merely scalded the vinegar 
soon acts upon the tissues, rendering them soft and equally unsightly. 
In 1879 the following process of itrepariug “jellied oysters” was patented t by 
Katherine L. Jewell, of New York: 
A quantity of freshly opened oysters are slightly cooked so as to plump them. They arc immedi- 
ately placed in the vessel in which they are to be marketed and covered with a liiiuid jjrepared in the 
following manner: A suitable quantity of oyster liquor containing a few fresh oysters is boiled until 
the liquor is so far inspissated as to form a jelly (solidify) when cooled. This liquor is strained and 
while warm is mixed with its weight of heated vineg.ar, to which spices are added to suit the taste. 
This liquor is poured over the plumped oysters so as to cover them, and it will, when cooled, form a 
jelly sufficiently firm to support the oysters and form with them a semisolid mass impervious to air. 
The small oyster crabs {Pinnotheres ostreum) found at times in the oysters are 
sometimes pickled at Chesapeake ports in a manner similar to that applied to oysters, 
but they are so scarce and the it rice for them fresh is so high that the quantity pickled 
is very small. 
"Letters Patent No. 70435, Novembers, 1867. t Letters Patent No. 215628, May 20, 1879. 
