S4 Account an Excursion to Tkehes. 
gress, as my time was limited to about forty days. The season 
of the year was particularly favourable ; for, as we left Cairo 
before the Nile commenced rising, and consequently before the 
current was strong, we were able, with the fresh northerly 
winds which prevailed, to go on at a great rate ; owing to which^ 
I had not only sufficient time to visit almost every thing of any 
note as far as Thebes, but was able to remain there twelve days. 
To his other kind attentions, Mr Salt added that of letting us 
have the benefit of one of his servants to act as an interpreter. 
We were no sooner on the Nile, than v/e felt an agreeable 
change in the climate, from the oppressive heat in the confined 
streets of Cairo. You will easily believe, that having so many 
objects of novelty and interest around us, and so many more in 
prospect, we were quite elated, and enjoyed ourselves to the ut- 
most. When we were tired admiring the banks of the Nile, the 
numerous villages, the groves of palms, &c. &c., we had a re- 
serve in our little cabin, which contained ample food for the 
mind, in the books Mr Salt had kindly lent us ; and when we 
wanted a supply of a more substantial nature, .we had only to 
stop at any of the villages, where we had, every morning, large 
draughts of new milk, bought half a dozen fowls for sixpence, 
and, if we required them, a hundred eggs for about half as 
much. We had no small addition to our comforts in bathing,ir 
perhaps, tmce ever}^ day, v/ithout being disturbed by croco- 
diles ; which, as far as I can learn, instead of being ever on the 
watch to devour, are the most harmless timid creatures that 
exist. On the 28th, we passed the Coptic Convent of the Pul- 
ley, standing upon a very high perpendicular rock, which in 
many places hangs over the Nile in the most picturesque man- 
ner. Although we were sailing pretty fast at the time, some 
poor fellows belonging to the convent, v?ho appeared to be quite 
of an amphibious nature, swam off to us, and kept hanging by 
the boat, supplicating for charity? until we gave them a few 
piastres. 
On the 29th we stopped to visit the catacombs of Benihas- 
san. These are huge chambers cut in the rock ; but for what 
purpose they were intended, is, I believe, quite uncertain. The 
largest of them which we entered was from thirty to forty feet 
long, and about twenty feet high, with a small recess at the far- 
