PIPE SPKEffG. 113 
piled from the horizon high into the heavens. At noon we pass along a 
ledge of chocolate cliffs, and, taking out our sandwiches, we make a dinner 
as we ride along. 
Yesterday, our Indians discussed for hours the route which we should 
take. There is one way, farther by ten or twelve miles, with sure water ; 
another shorter, where water i* found sometimes; their conclusion was 
that water would be found now; and this is the way we go, yet all day long 
we are anxious about it. To be out two days, with only the water that can 
be carried in two small kegs, is to have our animals suffer greatly. At five 
o'clock we come to the spot, and there is a huge water-pocket, containing 
several barrels. What a relief ! Here we camp for the night. 
September 15. Up at day-break, for it is a long day's march to the next 
water. They say we must "run very hard" to reach it by dark. 
Our course is to the south. From Pipe Spring we can see a mountain, 
and I recognize it as the one seen last summer from a cliff overlooking the 
Grand Canon; and I wish to reach the river just behind the mountain. 
There are Indians living in the group, of which it is the highest, whom I 
wish to visit on the way. These mountains are of volcanic origin, and we 
soon come to ground that is covered with fragments of lava. The way 
becomes very difficult. We have to cross deep ravines, the heads of canons 
that run into the Grand Canon. It is curious now to observe the knowl 
edge of our Indians. There is not a trail but what they know; every gulch 
and every rock seems familiar. I have prided myself on being able to 
grasp and retain in my mind the topography of a country; but these Indians 
put me to shame. My knowledge is only general, embracing the more 
important features of a region that remains as a map engraved on my mind; 
but theirs is particular. They know every rock and every ledge, every 
gulch and canon, and just where to wind among these to find a pass; and 
their knowledge is unerring. They cannot describe a country to you, but 
they can tell you all the particulars of a route. 
I have but one pony for the two, and they were to ride u turn about" ; 
but Chu-ar' ' -ru-um-pcak, the chief, rides, and Shuts, the one-eyed, bare 
legged, merry-faced pigmy, walks, and points the way with a slender cane; 
then leaps and bounds by the shortest way, and sits down on a rock and 
15 COL 
