INQUIEING THE WAY. H5 
tance are two Indians, scampering up the mountain side. One stops; the 
other still goes on, and is soon lost to view. We ride up, and find CJm-ar'- 
ru-um-peak talking with the one who had stopped. It is one of the ladies 
resident in these mountain glades; she is evidently paying taxes, Godiva 
like. She tells us that her people are at the spring; that it is only two hours' 
ride; that her good master has gone on to tell them we are coming, and 
that she is harvesting seeds. 
We sit down and eat our luncheon, and share our biscuit with the 
woman of the mountains ; then on we go, over a divide between two rounded 
peaks. I send the party on to the village, and climb the peak on the left, 
riding my horse to the upper limit of trees, and then tugging up afoot. 
From this point I can see the Grand Canon, and know where I am. I can 
see the Indian village, too, in a grassy valley, embosomed in the mountains, 
the smoke curling up from their fires; my men are turning out their horses, 
and a group of natives stand around. Down the mountain I go, and reach 
camp at sunset. 
After supper we put some cedar boughs on the fire, the dusky villagers 
sit around, and we have a smoke and a talk. I explain the object of my 
visit, and assure them of my friendly intentions. Then I ask them about a 
way down into the canon. They tell me that years ago, a way was discov 
ered by which parties could go down, but that no one has attempted it for 
a long time; that it is a very difficult and very dangerous undertaking to 
reach the "Big Water." Then I inquire about the SM'-vwits, a tribe that 
lives about the springs on the mountain sides and canon cliffs to the south 
west. They say that their village is now about thirty miles away, and 
promise to send a messenger for them to morrow morning. 
Having finished our business for the evening, I ask if there is a tu-givi'- 
na-gunt in camp : that is, if there is any one present who is skilled in relat 
ing their mythology. Chu-ar' -ru-um-peak says To-mor'-ro-un-ti-kai, the chief 
of these Indians, is a very noted man for his skill in this matter; but they 
both object, by saying that the season for tu-gwi'-nai has not yet arrived. 
But I had anticipated this, and soon some members of the party come with 
pipes and tobacco, a large kettle of coffee, and a tray of biscuits, and, after 
sundry ceremonies of pipe lighting and smoking, we all feast, and, warmed 
