S9S Messrs A. and P. Gerards’ Accoimt of a Journey 
Sutluj, which rear their white heads to the height of 20,000 
feet and upwards. 
The thermometer in a tent got up so high during the day as 
50°, but at 4 p. m. it fell to the freezing point, and at 7 was 8® 
below it. We sat up till past 10, for the purpose of making as- 
tronomical observations, which was cold work, and amused our- 
selves in smoking dried tobacco, which we found far from un- 
pleasant. Our situation was not the most agreeable, for we had 
but a small supply of firewood, which was kindled in the middle 
of the tent, and we were involved in a cloud of smoke, and sur- 
rounded by servants, whilst every now and then we were alarm- 
ed by the crash of rocks, split by the frost. 
We had all severe headaches during the night, owing proba- 
bly to the rarefaction of the air, but attributed by the natives to 
a poisonous plant, said to grow most abundantly at the greatest 
elevations. 
This pass separates Choara from Koonawur, another of the 
grand divisions of the Buschur, which lies on both banks of the 
Sutluj, extending from Lat. 31® 30' to 32®, and Long. 78® 10' 
to 78® 45'. It is a secluded, rugged and barren country, sel- 
dom exceeding 8 miles in breadth. It is terminated on the N. 
and NW. by a lofty chain of mountains, covered with perpetual 
snow, upwards of 20,000 feet high, which separates it from Lu- 
dak : a similar range of the Himalayas, equal in height, bounds 
it to the southward : on the east, a pass almost 14,000 feet high 
divides it from the Chinese dominions ; and on the west lies an- 
other of the principal divisions of Buschur. 
The villages,, which are elevated from 8000 to 12,000 feet 
above the sea, are very thinly scattered ; not more than two or 
three occur in a stage, and sometimes none at all for several 
days. In the summer season, from the reverberation of the so- 
lar rays, the heat in the bed of the Sutluj, and other large 
streams, is oppressive, and quite sufficient to bring to maturity 
grapes of a delicious flavour, of which raisins, and a spiritous li- 
quor called Rakh, are made. 
The inhabitants wear a frock of white blanket, often twofold, 
reaching down to the knees, and having sleeves, a pair of trow- 
sers, and girdle of the same, a cap of black blanket like a bon- 
net, and shoes, of which the upper part is woollen, and the sole 
2 
