270 
water ices, parfaits, mousses, frozen fruits, punches, and sherbets. 
Ice creams are classified as follows : 
Philadelphia ice creams are cream sweetened, flavored, and stirred while 
freezing. 
French ice creams are custards of different degrees of richness stirred while 
freezing.” 
Then follow the definitions of parfaits, bisques, and mousses, which 
are described as whipped cream with or without eggs, frozen without 
stirring. The author adds : 
These creams, in different degrees of richness and with different flavorings, 
give an infinite variety, and their combinations and forms of molding give all 
the fancy ices. 
Mrs. Ronald does not mention gelatin as a constituent of either 
straight ice creams or of any of the frozen custards or desserts which 
she describes. 
In “Paul Richard’s Pastry Book.” page 78, is found the follow- 
ing: 
The best and richest ice creams are made from double cream, with the 
addition of yolks of eggs, sugar, and flavorings, while some of the cheapest 
commercial creams are made from milk only, without eggs, and are thickened 
with gelatin, corn starch, arrowroot, sago, and other preparations. The rich 
creams which contain eggs and cream frozen in patent freezers are also termed 
New York creams, and the lighter creams, made from the best cream and with- 
out eggs, Philadelphia creams. 
On page 82 it is stated that the name Philadelphia ice cream 
“ is generally applied to ice creams made with pure cream and with- 
out any eggs, although some makers use about 5 eggs to each, gallon 
of cream, with 2 pounds of sugar.” 
Under the head of commercial ice creams the author says : 
Where quantity is more required than quality ice creams are made from 
plain cream, half milk and half cream, and of milk only. Starch, arrowroot, 
and sago flour in proportion from 3 to 6 ounces to each gallon is boiled into 
a smooth batter with a part of the milk and the sugar, strained, cooled, and 
frozen. Gelatin should be soaked and dissolved in warm milk but not boiled, 
as this would cause the milk to curdle. About If to 2 ounces of gelatin are 
used for 1 gallon of cream and milk. Another thickener for ice creams is 
used cold. The preparation is known to the trade as cream-thick ; it is some- 
thing like a dry milk powder. The thickener is mixed with the sugar to be 
used, the cold milk or cream added gradually. As soon as the sugar is dis- 
solved the cream is ready to be frozen. 
Caterers’ standard ice cream, best quality, according to Paul Rich- 
ards, is made after the following recipe : 
1 gallon double cream, flavor, If pounds sugar. The cream is made by the 
cold process and is used by the best caterers as a standard preparation from 
which are made many of the fancy creams, fruit, and nut creams, 
