279 
other unwholesome matter from our own and South American slaughterhouses. 
The respectable manufacturers or makers of ice cream did not use gelatin or 
other thickeners for the purpose of cheapening their product, but for the pur- 
pose of producing the velvet smoothness so much admired, and also for the 
purpose of insulating the frozen watery or aqueous portion of the cream and 
preventing it from swimming or turning into “ soup,” upon the slightest ex- 
posure. To avoid this dilemnta, the cream had in the past been reenforced or 
“bodied ,up ” by making custard (hot or cold), the old and ancient practice 
of adding fresh eggs and heating gently to form a custard or by adding corn- 
starch, arrowroot, potato starch, gum arabic, or tragacanth, ground gelatin, 
tapioca, etc., some of these not requiring heat to form a mucilaginous body in 
the cream, aided in keeping the ice cream firm. 
The use of same is now prohibited under the new law under a penalty that 
will prevent even the lawless from risking its execution. There is some hard- 
ship to the commercial ice cream in the double standard. Ice cream as ordi- 
narily made is run up in 10-gallon batches from 5| to 6 gallons “mixes,” and 
after being “ doubled ” and “ frozen,” and then flavored, and rerun long enough 
to diffuse the fruit, extracts, nuts, coloring, etc., evenly and uniformly through- 
out the mass, it is then packed in “ packers,” or suitable tins to suit the cus- 
tomers’ orders and hardened ready for sale, shipment, and delivery. 
Now, by this method it is quite impracticable to the ordinary manufacturer 
to make exactly the quality of the two standards, for instance, lemon and 
vanilla are flavored almost identically by the same quantity of extract, but 
the one under the law may contain 12 per cent butter fat and the other must 
contain 14 per cent, while chocolate ice cream, which is enriched by at least 
1 pound of cocoa butter fat, can be the same as vanilla. 
I would therefore respectfully ask the committee upon food standards to 
make a uniform standard of the lower quantity named, viz, 12 per cent and re- 
quire all ice cream to be made of that quality or above it. 
In making “ runs ” of “ fruit ” ice creams it is the practice to dip off a gallon 
of cream after being “ run up” or “doubled” and fill in a gallon of crushed or 
macerated fruit, and thus the standard is involved, and there is a risk of an 
honest manufacturer disturbing the percentage, as ice cream in the soft state is 
difficult to measure with a dipper. 
Next the variation of the cream supplied to the manufacturer is beyond his 
control and would necessitate his calling in the chemist as a daily assistant 
to keep the milk dealer and creamery man up to his contract. 
The reputation of ice cream as a delicacy and a food for the sick was not 
achieved by the large manufacturers who now are the largest “calamity howl- 
ers ” over the hardships of the new law, but by the small confectioners who 
made a neighborhood reputation, * * * but as ice cream became more and 
more popular, the machinery supply man began to manufacture machines for the 
trade, the long cherished secrets and formulas slipped into other hands and 
books of recipes were published. Then came the steam ice cream factory with 
its dirt and slop — dark, damp, noisome, underground, or above ground, in some 
stable or shed — the whirring and buzzing work went on and fierce competition 
drove down prices, and along came the “ devil with his glue bags,” tempting 
with his arguments, a “ bigger yield,” “ less ice,” “ more velvety smoothness,” 
“ fast runs,” “ saving coal and ice,” “ nonmelting quality,” use “ more milk ” 
“ less cream,” until after while “ glue and water ” began to play an important 
part in the largest establishments run by steam and electricity. 
There has grown into general use the last thirty or more years among the 
more respectable ice cream makers, the addition of a gallon of so-called heavy 
