289 
Make a liberal interpretation of the law, say “ Ice cream is a frozen product 
made of cream and sugar, with or without milk, condensed milk, gelatin, 
flavor, or eggs, and contains not less than 8 per cent of butter fat,” and dealers 
will use their best endeavors to live up to it and see that others do, but if 
the proposed standard be adopted dealers can make such fine goods under a 
different name that are equally if not more delicious that ice cream in not many 
years would only be a name. 
These standard cookbooks are not nor were they published to instruct manu- 
facturers how to make their goods, but that housewives might know how to 
make the best of everything, and not with a view of seeing how cheap every- 
thing could be prepared to put before their families. 
Gelatin is just as important an ingredient of ice cream as sugar, for without 
it- ice cream could not be sold commercially for the reason that it would get 
icy and not fit to use. 
A very interesting chapter on ice cream is contained in “ The Epi- 
curean,” by Chas. Ranhofer, chef of Delmonicos, previously quoted. 
In the preface the author says : 
In publishing this work I have endeavored to fill a much-needed want, namely, 
the best and most effectual manner of preparing healthy and nutritious food. 
This edition contains innumerable recipes which I have simplified and ex- 
plained in a comprehensive manner so as to best meet the wants of all. It 
suggests, also, many useful and important hints to those about entering the 
profession. 
Recipe 3451 describes fresh-fruit ice creams which are to be made 
without eggs or cooking. The mixture which is used for the process 
is composed of 3 pints of cream, a pint of milk and a quart of the 
juice of the fruit. Peach ice cream is described as made with two- 
thirds of cream and one-third of the fruit pulp. 
The most important point which is brought out by Mr. Ranhofer 
is the fact that he never uses the words “ ice cream ” alone to repre- 
sent any of the mixtures which are usually sold under that name. I 
will quote some of the terms which he uses : 
Ice cream a la Cialdini ; Andalusian ice cream chocolate and cocoa ice cream ; 
' cinnamon, ginger, or pumpernickel rye bread ice cream ; fresh fruit ice cream ; 
nougat ice cream or nougat Neapolitan cream ; pistachio ice cream ; burnt 
almond ice cream and witt^angelica ; rice ice cream ; rice ice cream with citron, 
garnished with truffles; Italian meringue; virgin cream with orange flower 
water and noyau ; ice cream with almonds ; ice cream with eggs and black 
coffee; ice cream with roasted or boiled chestnuts, etc. 
In all these mixtures into which any extraneous bodies are added 
Mr. Ranhofer is careful to give the name so as to distinguish it from 
the plain term of ice cream. Thus no false idea is conveyed to the 
purchaser respecting its quality or composition. 
24907— Bull. 41—08 19 
