295 
use their best endeavors to live up to it and see that others do, but if the pro- 
posed standard be adopted dealers can make such fine goods under a different 
name that are equally if not more delicious that ice cream in not many years 
would only be a name. 
These standard cookbooks are not nor were they published to instruct manu- 
facturers how to make their goods, but that housewives might know how to 
make the best of everything, and not with a view of seeing how cheap every- 
thing could be prepared to put before their families. 
Gelatin is just as important an ingredient of ice cream as sugar, for without 
it ice cream could not be sold commercially for the reason that it would get 
icy and not fit to use. 
A very interesting chapter on ice cream is contained in “ The Epi- 
curean.” by Chas. Ranhofer, chef of Delmonicos, previously quoted. 
In the preface the author says : 
In publishing this work I have endeavored to fill a much-needed want, namely, 
the best and most effectual manner of preparing healthy and nutritious food. 
This edition contains innumerable recipes which I have simplified and ex- 
plained in a comprehensive manner so as to best meet the wants of all. It 
suggests, also, many useful and important hints to those about entering the 
profession. 
Recipe 3451 describes fresh-fruit ice creams which are to be made 
without eggs or cooking. The mixture which is used for the process 
is composed of 3 pints of cream, a pint of milk and a quart of the 
juice of the fruit. Peach ice cream is described as made with two- 
thirds of cream and one-third of the fruit pulp. 
The most important point which is brought out by Mr. Ranhofer 
is the fact that he never uses the words u ice cream ” alone to repre- 
sent any of the mixtures which are usually sold under that name. I 
will quote some of the terms which he uses : 
Ice cream al la Cialdini ; Andalusian ice cream chocolate and cocoa ice cream ; 
cinnamon, ginger, or pumpernickel rye bread ice cream ; fresh fruit ice cream ; 
nougat ice cream or nougat Nepolitan cream ; pistachio ice cream ; burnt 
almond ice cream and with angelica ; rice ice cream ; rice ice cream with citron, 
garnished with truffles ; Italian meringue ; virgin cream with orange flower 
water and noyau ; ice cream with almonds ; ice cream with eggs and black 
coffee ; ice cream with roasted or boiled chestnuts, etc. 
In all these mixtures into which any extraneous bodies are added 
Mr. Ranhofer is careful to give the name so as to distinguish it from 
the plain term of ice cream. Thus no false idea is conveyed to the 
purchaser respecting its quality or composition. 
THE QUANTITY OF BUTTER FAT IN ICE CREAM. 
The data which have been cited indicate that there is no tendency 
in the trade to secure any uniform quantity or standard of butter fat 
in ice creams. The authorities show that an ice cream may have from 
a mere trace of butter fat up to 17 or 20 per cent. The consumer, 
therefore, has no indication in buying a so-called ice cream of the 
quantity of cream or butter fat which he is about to secure, nor would 
a physician in ordering ice cream for a patient have any information 
