274 
gelatin, tapioca, cornstarch, arrowroot, or any other makeshift will compensate 
for the absence of pure cream. 
The use of milk should be discountenanced by all who would have and enjoy 
ice cream of the best quality. In truth, when made of milk and eggs and not 
cream the product is frozen milk custard. 
By the same author the American type of ice cream is called Phil- 
adelphia,” and the following statement is made : 
Perhaps in no place in America can the Philadelphia ice creams be found of 
higher quality than at a first-class confectioner’s in the City of Brotherly Love. 
Certainly nowhere else can the chief material, pure cream, be obtained of 
greater richness and more delicious fiavor. 
This is somewhat misleading, since there are doubtless hundreds of 
places in the United States where just as good cream with just as fine 
flavor can be found as in Philadelphia. 
The American anonymous author above mentioned recommends the 
use of eggs in that variety of ice cream known as “ Neapolitan ” 
which, however, in its own country is not called a cream. He states 
that the Neapolitan ice creams do not differ from the Philadelphia 
creams except in the use of eggs in their composition. Types of Ne- 
apolitan ices are made according to the formulas given in the book; 
the most popular one is called vanilla. No. 53 — which is made of 2 
quarts of cream, 12 eggs, pounds sugar, and ounces of a mixture 
of 1 pound of sugar with 1 ounce of finely powdered Mexican vanilla 
bean. In regard to the Philadelphia ice creams the author says, on 
page 60: 
Although some of the best confectioners in the Quaker City make their 
creams somewhat after the Neapolitan method, in proportions varying from 6 
to 1 egg for 1 quart of cream, some using the whole egg, others the yolk only, 
yet the plain creams without eggs for which that city has long been famous 
have become so generally known by its name that the title is here retained as 
their proper and distinctive designation. There is no other name for them. 
The question of the relative qualities of the Neapolitan and Philadelphia 
creams is one of either education, taste, or comfort. Those who are fond of 
eggs and custards will prefer the former ; those who are partial to pure cream, 
as well as those with whom eggs do not agree, will choose the latter. 
A typical formula for the vanilla cream is also given on page 60 as 
follows : 
Three quarts of cream, li pounds of sugar, and li ounces of the mixture of 
sugar with finely powdered Mexican vanilla bean, above described. 
F ollowing this recipe are given recipes for chocolate, chocolate cara- 
mel, coffee, white coffee, caramel, pistachio, almond pistachio, almond, 
sweet almond, burnt almond, orgeat, filbert, burnt filbert, hazelnut, 
walnut, chestnut, lemon, orange, pineapple, banana, strawberry, 
raspberry, peach, apricot, nectarine, plum, cherry, apple, currant, and 
grape. In none of these are any components admitted except the 
cream and sugar, save the proper flavoring matters derived exclu- 
