GKEY MULTjET. 
13 
passed through the mouth and gills, and then the fish was 
left to wander to the end of the line in the sea; after which 
it was drawn back again, when it was found to be followed 
to the water’s edge by some one or more of the opposite sex. 
jElian relates this more at large, and says the decoy fish must 
be selected as the most excellent and beautiful of its kind; 
but in the title to his account of it he refers this habit to a 
species he terms Oxyrhynchus kephahis, or Sharp-nosed Mullet, 
which he appears to distinguish from the simple Kephalus, as 
also from the Kestreus, which is another kind of Grey Mullet. 
Oppian also makes a distinction between the Kephalus and 
Kestreus, but refers to the same practice of attracting the 
Kephalus near the shore, where a casting-net was thrown to 
Secure the prize. And strange as this story is, it is borne 
witness to by Gesner, who is quoted by Willoughby as having 
seen it practised at Tarentum. A male fish was observed to 
follow a female that had been sent out as a decoy, and, 
although severely Avounded Avith a spear, it would not be made 
to quit its lure, until at last it fell a victim to its love. 
All writers agree in ascribing to this fish great quickness 
ot hearing, and it has even been supposed that it is capable 
of the perception of particular sounds. The Cornish historian 
Carew had formed a pond on a branch of the Tamar, in 
Avhich Mullets Avere fed at regular periods, and they were 
draAvn together to the appointed spot at the sound made by 
the chopping of their food. We are not to conclude it certain 
that the sacred fishes mentioned by Martial, as being preserved 
in the Roman emperor’s pond at Baire Avere Mullets, although 
it is probable they were so; and it may have been Avith some 
exaggeration that he says they each one kncAV their name, but, 
Avhere the sound was simple the general observation of the 
fact is not Avithout probability. 
From all accounts, ancient and modern, it is certain that 
this fish has ever been in esteem for the table, although in 
some places more than in others; and Ausonius says that to 
be eaten in perfection it should be cooked Avithin six hours 
after it is caught. But there is a favourite preparation made 
from it in Italy that is scarcely knoAvn in England. It is 
called botargo, and is formed of the roe; Avhich is carefully 
removed from the fish, and sprinkled Avith salt for four or 
