SURMULLET. 
215 
of ostentation as we must suppose, indulged himself with a 
dish which was formed of only the harhs of this expensive fish. 
The head and liver were the parts which constituted the 
particular objects of attraction to those who prided themselves 
on their taste: and that the last-named part was such we can 
easily understand, whether formed into sauce or as a portion 
of the cooked fish, for in truth it is this which yields the 
larger portion of its delicious flavour. But it is not so easy to 
discern what it could he that recommended the head to the 
epicure, except that so little of anything could be extracted 
from it. The well-known Apicius, who spent a large fortune 
in the indulgence of his appetite, believed that he had secured 
an addition to his luxuries by droM'niiig Mullets in a rich 
sauce of great cost, known by the name of the Sauce of the 
Allies, and supposed to he made of the entrails of Mackerel 
infused in very strong vinegar. But it is easy to perceive 
that fancy only, or the craving after notoriety, so powerful 
in his day, must have been the chief inducement to this pro- 
ceeding; for the fishes could not receive any portion of the 
flavoiu' into their flesh until they were dead. 
The practice of presenting the living fish to the guests at 
table, swimming in glass vessels, which had its origin in the 
wdsh to secure them in the best condition for the cook, became 
afterwards a fashion; and there were those who found a 
pleasure in pointing out the succession of changes through 
wliich the captive passed as the powers of life declined. 
The Surmullet is one of those fishes which after death never 
recover the brilliant tints which adorn them during life, and 
when at freedom in their native seas. 
It is curious to find that there were some who probably 
acquired equal notoriety with others, and at the same time 
saved their purse, by professing to despise the fish which 
others so greatly coveted. Boeticus, as Martial sj^eaks of him, 
cordd not eat the Mullet, the hai-e, the boar, the pheasant, 
nor other dainties; but he preferred the Gerres and other 
fishes, which held the same value as with us the Sprat; and 
Martial declares for himself that although he valued a Mullet 
of two pounds weight as equal to a Turbot, yet both these 
fishes lost their relish when alloyed by the prate of hi.s 
entertainer. 
