114 
WHITEBAIT. 
Clupea alha, Yabueil; Br. Fishes, vol. ii, p. 202. 
“ “ Jenyns; Manual, p. 436. 
“ latulus, CuVIEE. 
Thk notice of the public was first directed to this little 
fish as forming a delicious article of food; but it remained for 
Mr. Yarrell to decide that it is a distinct species, and not, as 
had been supposed, the young of some one of the well-known 
species of the Herring family, and particularly of the Allis Shad. 
It was also believed that it did not exist elsewhere than in 
the Thames, where a fishery was carried on to supply an extensive 
demand from the people of London; who had rendered it 
fashionable to go in parties to the taverns on the banks of the 
river to feed on this luxury, with, it must he added, such other 
accompaniments as might render the treat a rather expensive 
one. What had begun among the more obscure classes of the 
Metropolis, in the course of time extended to those of the 
highest rank; and it becomes an incident in the history of this 
fish to trace the progress of this upward-tending indulgence. 
Fiom the persons already referred to, it first extended to some 
gentlemen who had been appointed Commissioners for the 
management of the affairs of an expanse of water, which had 
broken in on the low ground from the Thames, at Dagenham; 
and who, once a year, made it a custom to have a friendly 
meeting and dinnei, of which this fish formed an important part, 
at what was called the Lreach house; and to which they invited 
their particular Iriends, together with the principal ministers of 
the Clown. I bus become a mark of gentility, it grew into 
a practice for all the inhabitants of the city who can aff'ord 
the expense to indulge in the excursion down the river; and 
it is a sign of the conclusion of a session of Parliament when 
