ARISPE. 
277 
We were invited to take a seat upon an adobe projec- 
tion, a cool though rather hard substitute for a settee, 
whereupon we entered into conversation with the 
alcalde, and groups of inquisitive followers. Indian 
depredations formed the sole topic of our conversation ; 
and much surprise was expressed at our boldness in 
venturing so far with so small a party. In such con- 
stant fear do these people live, that I found it impossi- 
ble to hire two men to take out our mules to a meadow 
half a mile from the village. At length I addressed 
to the authorities a formal demand for two herdsmen ; 
this was complied with, and two men soon after ap- 
peared, armed to the teeth. But by this time we had 
made arrangements to have some green wheat cut and 
brought to the camp, which enabled us to dispense 
with the grazing. By scouring the town we succeeded 
in purchasing three dozen eggs, the entire stock on 
hand. American coin would not pass. W^e offered in 
pay both half dollars and gold half eagles; but they 
shook their heads. To my question, “ Is it not good 
gold and silver ? ” I received the universal reply of 
Quien sale f ” Who knows ? Fortunately we had a 
few Mexican dollars, which we were obliged to change 
for i\iejoles^ or copper coin of the State, 128 of which 
make a dollar. 
On returning to camp, we found it full of people ; 
and it was with difficulty that the cooks could prepare 
our meal for the crowd of wondering spectators that 
surrounded the fires. I thought I had seen human 
wretchedness in its worst state, but here was a lower 
depth. A more degraded, filthy, destitute population 
than this, can hardly exist. Their number is about 
