TO CHIHUAHUA. 405 
animals were again hitched up, and we moved off 
once more, passing through Guadalupe, and stopped at 
a small lagoon, three miles beyond, where we encamped. 
We could have travelled a couple of hours longer, but 
were told there was no water within fifteen miles, which 
we could not make before dark, as a portion of the 
road was very sandy. 
Guadalupe is a miserable looking village. It was 
founded in the year 1850, as a military colony, at a 
time when the Mexican government offered induce- 
ments to settlers to take up lands. Its population con- 
sists chiefly of persons from New Mexico, who preferred 
Mexican to American rule. Its houses are all built of 
upright sticks, the interstices filled with mud. There 
was but one shop in the place, and no mechanic except 
a blacksmith. There was nothing that indicated pros- 
perity; and the contrast between this village and a 
new American settlement, was most striking. We 
looked about for vegetables in vain: a few water- 
melons were all the place afforded. 
October 12th. Last night was very cold, so much 
so that three or four blankets were necessary. During 
the day the heat is quite oppressive, so that the thinnest 
clothing is required; but no sooner does the sun sink 
below the horizon, than the temperature falls to a 
degree that compels one to change one’s garments and 
wrap up well in blankets. The mornings are equally 
cold, until the sun has been up at least three hours. 
By ten or eleven thick clothing is laid aside. 
We left the valley of the Rio Grande to-day, and 
ascended the table-land, which was thinly covered 
with chapporal without grass. The road was sandy ; 
