COEEA. 
503 
the earth gradually, leaving at last a particle or two of gold in the 
bottom of the pan. I learned that the amount they each wash out 
every day is little above ordinary coolie wages — 000 cash or so. 
None of the unofficial classes are allowed to work mines indepen- 
dently, and this perhaps dampens the ordinary digger’s ardour. One 
official, I Tong Ik, has charge of gold-mining in the four northern 
provinces, to which it is chiefly limited. The best gold is found in 
Ch’ungsan, in Whangha. 
We found copper-mining near the north of P’yungyang. There is 
a small village some distance beyond Changchin, where there are 
smelting furnaces. The rough metal is taken from here to P’yung- 
yang and minted into cash ; but the output is something that Coreans 
are very silent about. I find it next to impossible to know definitely 
the amounts obtained from any of their mines. 
There are also lead and coal — of course not worked. Coreans 
have a superstitious regard for the hills, which prevents their ever 
working any of them. Only the hollows are worked, and that very 
poorly, as, in the case of gold, they go washing the same earth over 
and over again. 
Continuing our journey, we passed through A nchoo, a very pretty 
town, 180 li north of P’yungyang. It derives some importance from 
being at the junction of three roads — one to Wonsan, one to Euiehoo, 
and one to P’yungyang. Such noisy crowds, however, in this place 
clamoured after us that wo were glad to get away. 
A few days later and we had completed our 1,050 li, and were in 
Euielioo. Euiehoo is a more enlightened town than those inland, and 
so we fared well and proved less interesting to the natives. The place 
shows signs of having once been prosperous. The opening of the 
ports has doubtless ruined Euiehoo, cutting trade and carrying the 
population to Wonsan and Chemulpo. There are still some efforts 
at business with China. Guilds and pawnshops yet remain as signs 
of commercial activity. The guilds have hut few rules or regulations. 
Anyone of the same social scale may join by depositing so much. 
Stock, of course, goes up or down according to the times. Pawnshops 
also are interesting. Half the value of the object deposited may be 
drawn. The rates are at about 10 per cent, per month until redeemed. 
Pawnshops may be opened by private parties, without any permit 
from the Government. 
In Euiehoo there is quite a large establishment f or pressing beans. 
The rollers were drawn by mules, giving the place quite a business- 
like air. 
On 30th March, 1891, we crossed the Yaloo, and took carts for 
Mukden. The roads wore very rough in places, but the life and 
activity of China was delightful after the comatose state of Corea. 
The inns wo found disagreeable from smoke, and the food, full of 
grease and oils of various kinds, was execrable. A Corean just across 
the border, whom I met dressed out in Chinese clothes, remarked that 
there was freedom, that a man could work, and for that reason he 
liked it ; hut, he added, “ The food ! dirty is no name for it ” ( mar 
anis ) . 
The second day we passed the imposing peak of Keumsuk San 
(Goldstone Mountain) to the right, and at noon stopped at Pong 
Whang Sung. A town like this seemed a veritable resurrection from 
