504 
PKOCEEDINGS OF SECTION E. 
the dead after Corea. The streets were thronged with busy people, 
carts passing to and fro, soldiers moving about. We had tiffin here 
and rode on. Not till within sight of Liaoyang did we reach the 
plains. This was the fifth day from Euiehoo. We just skirted the 
walls of the city and pushed on for Mukden. 
After a few days spent here we engaged carts for Teunghwa- 
sung, which lies in a line almost directly east of Mukden. We 
moved on for five days, the roads being heavy with mud, and crossed 
here and there by difficult streams to ford. There was still (15th 
April) much snow, and several times we found it exceedingly cold. 
Teunghwasung is a lonely place, surrounded on all sides by 
mountains. We stayed a day or two, and then continued our carts 
for 160 //, bringing us to within 30 li of the Yaloo. In Teunghwa- 
sung we were told of a party of Englishmen who had passed through a 
year or two before, and how they had twenty horses and guns innumer- 
able. Seeing so little gunpowder in our caravan, they shook their 
heads, as if to say, “ England is not as powerful as she was a year or 
two ago.” 
The last part of the journey proved to be most interesting. In 
the inns they gave us corn bread and boiled cornmeal, but no rice. 
Before entering the forest, which extends along the way for four or 
five miles, we saw coal-pits being worked on many of the hills, which 
proved to me that Chinese do not regard their hills with the fear and 
reverence that the Coreans do. Shortly before entering the forest we 
passed a theatrical performance, the first of the kind I had ever seen. 
There was a rude stage, and people acting the parts. An immense 
crowd of spectators gathered and lined one side of the hill. Where 
so many people had come from in that desolate region seemed very 
strange. 
The forest part proved interesting from the fact that we lost our 
way, and had great difficulty in finding it again. The road is little 
travelled, and there being woodcutters’ paths branching oft here and 
there makes it very uncertain. We found ash, oak, birch, and other 
hard woods ; and right in the middle of the thickest part was a hut 
marking the terminus of the cart-way. Here we took leave of our 
Chinese muleteer — who had to leave us — to "walk and carry our 
baggage as best we could the remaining 30 U to the Yaloo, 
We passed through shaded canons, where we found the ice still 
seven and eight feet thick (19th April). A Corean of the party fell 
into one of the many ice-pools that we crossed, and received a severe 
wetting. Later on we found a Chinese party on their way to Ma-er- 
shan. They were ascending a ridge when their pony rolled off with 
all their kitchen utensils on his back. They looked a very miserable 
party, and we, w r ith our loads, seemed powerless to help them. 
When we had gone some 15 li we found a Corean hut, and 
decided to remain there for the night. They fed us once more on rice 
and kimeh'i — delightful fare after the lard and corn-bread of China. 
The old master was very uncommunicative. I asked why he had left 
Corea to live over on the China side, but he declined to say more than 
that there were many others moving across also. They seemed to get 
along well with the natives, and look quite prosperous. I have found 
the Coreans everywhere kindly disposed to the Chinese. They give 
them a much higher place in their hearts than they do Japanese or 
