MULLIGATAWNY. 
foup ; this we suspect from its namej is a dish pecu- 
liar to, or originating in the Madras presidency, as 
all, who know anything of tbe Tamil language will 
at once admit, the name is composed of two words 
in that language, milugu (pepper) and iannir (water) 
S er- water, pepper^water soup. The soup is a 
^ deal in use in the old country, but those who 
make and use it have not the least idea of the mean- 
ing if its name. Like rice and curry, and for much 
the same reason, this soup is only to be got in per- 
fection in its native country or in eastern climes, and 
in carrying out our idea that it is specially a dish 
of the Madras presidency, we have always found Tamil 
servants from thence, cooked it best, cooked it as it 
ought to be done. We quite recollect this dish was 
wont to be used as a sort of substitute for curry, and, 
as such, was eaten in very large quantity. When the 
rice and muligatawny soup were placed on the table, 
the boy, on lifting off the covers, would give timely 
warning, “ No curry got.” Having received this in- 
formation. and having very grave doubts that any- 
thing else “got” was a very unnecessary or super- 
fluous question, we w^ould All up the plate about half 
full of rice and then a few ladles of the soup over it 
and eat away, and, when the first plateful was done, 
have another, and perhaps a third, but we don’t think 
a fourth was ever attempted, perhaps from the very 
simple reason, not that a fourth one could not have 
been taken, but that the soup and rice were all done, 
This soup was never in such gr^neral use as curry, be- 
cause unlike curry it cannot be made out. of anj^thing 
or everything : it requires, or rather is all the bett^ r 
of having some strength and flavour of meat of some 
sort in it. Our own'ddea is, that, to have this dish 
in perfection, it should be made of chicken, chicken 
muligatawny and rice properly cooked by a Madrassee 
will make one forget curry andHce. 8o long as we can get 
that soup we will manage without the curr^r — only fora 
change, however, for we could not live aiwa,ys on it 
as was done with the curry the fact being, that, 
make the soup of what you like, the supply of com- 
modities fit for making soup, as it ought to be made 
is but limited, as compared with the resources you 
have to fall back upon in making varieties of curry. 
So that, although 3 on have rice and curry every day, 
still every day you have a change of curry, and although 
it is the same dish, still it is of different material, 
differently cooked, still rice and curry, but a dififerent 
curry. Having been dining at a ceremonious party, 
not long ago, we observed among, the number of 
dishes always handed round our old acquaintances, 
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