KANDY IN EAKLY PLANTING DAYS, 
forms an agreoable walk, or rather lounge or 
saunter in the cool of the evening, from which ste]3s 
are constructed from certain points so as to lead to 
or from the high road, below which runs out to the 
country eastward of the town, the lake on the right 
hand, and the grass esplanade on the left, which then 
passes the library, a fine modern building [? modern — 
Ed. C. O,] also on the north bank of the hike ; the “ Tem- 
ple of the Tooth,” where, to the curious stranger the 
tooth of Buddha can be shewn by the priest in 
attendance.'*'" The old god must have had a very 
large mouth to contain a mouthful of such teeth, 
for the tooth shewm as being one of the identical 
ones which he once possessed would rather incom- 
mode the mouth of a horse or bullock. Out still 
further beyond the temple, close adjoining the road 
leading to the Kondesala ferry, are a number of 
detached ■’houses, the residences of gentlemen en- 
gaged in business in the town; .snug cool-looking 
bungalows they are, thoroughly shaded in groves . of 
all sorts and sizes. In one of these bungalows, 
the residence then of our oldest colonist, Mr. VVilliam 
Rudd, the writer spent his first night in Kandy, 
thirty-two years ago. The Colombo coach office, or where 
the coach journey terminated, was somewhere just 
about this spot, and we well remember the first 
question asked on entering the verandah w^as, “ Where 
is Kandy ?” Kandy could soon be ferreted out — we 
mean the streets containing the bazars ; one had only 
to “ follow his nose,” or rather, to put it plainly, be 
guided by his olfactory senses, and there was not 
the slightest chance of mistaking the road. It would be 
difficult to describe the smell of Kandy in those days 
to those who have not been through the personal 
practical experience of it. It was a combination of all 
the numerous an ides exposed for sale in the open 
verandahs of the bazars : salt fish, currry-Btuffs of all 
sorts, oil, fruits (rotten and ripe), vegetables, spoilt 
coconuts split in two and exposed to dry in the sun (for 
what purpose we never were aware, unless for abstracting 
the oilf), the exhalations from the skin of the numerous 
Asiatics thronging the streets, natural ones, at all times 
repulsive to European nostrils, but aggravated and 
increased by the oil rubbed upon the body. Coconut 
oil is bad enough, but, of a'l the villainous smells 
proceeding from the dark skin, none is worse than 
* Not without some influence : the tooth is not fre- 
quently shewn. — En. C. O. 
t Coconut kernels are always so dried to prepare them 
for the oil press. The sun heat only evaporates the 
water — abstracts no oil. — E d, C. O, 
