i42 
Sept. 4, 1875. 
A NATURALIST’S TRIP TO FLORIDA. 
BY C. J. MAYXARD. 
FROM long's landing TO ST. ACGCSTINB. 
In the afternoon of March 23 the man who had the 
contract to carry the mail from St. Augustine to Key 
\Ve.st came down the creek and stopped at Long's Land- 
ing. He is a Minorcan descendant of a colony which 
was brought over by Dr. Turnbull, in 1767. Turnbull 
was an Englishman, and having bought a large tract of 
land at New Smyrna, imported 1,500 Corsicans and 
Minorcans from their native islands, offered them high 
wages and constant employment, but upon their arrival 
subjected them to severe and systematic persecution 
similar to slavery. They soon revolted imder this treat- 
ment, and fled to St. Augustine. Many, or nearly all, 
of the native inhabitants of that city at the present time 
can claim their ancestors among this people. It is not 
considered as a mark of distinction, but rather the re- 
verse ; and while among strangers they endeavor to con- 
ceal their origin. | 
The j'oung men who carried the mail were both Minor- 
cans, and spoke among themselves a gibberish which is 
mixed Minorcan, Spanish and English, which can only 
be understood by natives of the city. They were talk- 
ing together in this dialect one da}’, when I chanced 
to come suddenly upon them. They instantly ceased, 
and one asked me earnestly if I had heard what they 
were saying. I said I could not understand the lan- 
guage. He then laughed uneasily, and said that they 
were in sport, and that they could not understand each 
other. All these Minorcans are devoted Roman Cath- 
olics. , 
About two o'clock we had loaded our baggage and 
were sailing down the creek toward Mantanzas Lagoon. 
This stream is six miles long, and is very crooked, 
winding through broad marshes. We found the chan- 
nel of the lagoon to be very narrow and tortuous, with 
large mud flats on both sides. These flats were filled 
with little islands, that were coveerd with thick, coarse 
gra.'S, which formed a shelter for numerous rails and 
galiinules, which were cackling loudly. They seemed 
indignant at having their territory invaded. We w-’re 
unable to see them, as they kept concealed; but, judging 
from the variet}- of harsh notes, there were two or three 
species. The wind was slight, and almost directly 
aliead. As we were forced to tack frequently at the 
various turns in the channel, a good steady breeze was 
essential to avoid running upon the muddy banks. As 
is often the case, at the critical moment when our boat 
was put about, the slight puffs would die out entirely. 
At such times our captain would devotedly and earnestly 
invoke Saint Antonio to send a good breeze, using for 
this puHJOse a singular prayer or supplication in the 
form of a rude rhyme. The good Saint must have been 
raising a wind elsewhere, for it was some time before 
he. paid any attention to the persistent entreaties of our 
zealous captain. But at length we were favored, and 
passed tlirough the Mantanzas inlet near nightfall. The 
scenery here presented a wild, bleak appearance. The 
sun's last rays lighted up the sandy shores and threw a 
rosy light over the white-capped waves of old Ocean, 
as we swept by and entered the north branch of the 
river. It is about a quarter of a mile in width and 
eighteen miles long, terminating at the northern end of 
Anistacias Island, in front of the city. 
Shortly after entering the lagoon, we passed the old 
fort of Mantanzas. This structure is about forty feet 
square, and built of shell rock ; but at the sides of the 
watch-tower they rise ten feet higher. It was erected 
by the Spaniards as a look-out and to guard this pa.s- 
. sage. For over three hundred years it has kept watch 
and ward over the inlet, and now, although a deserted 
ruin, frowned grimly out from the gathering darkness 
upon us heretics as we passed, like the spirit of some 
bigoted Jesuit who would dispute our passage to the 
ancient city of the Catholics. 
We met the ebb tide not far above the old Look-out, 
and were forced to land, as the breeze had almost died 
away. Our captain chose a lonely place on Anistacias 
Island, called the Spanish fishcamps, in which to pass 
the night. We landed upon a muddy beach and entered 
the scrub by a narrow path. This soon led to an open- 
ing, which was entirely devoid of grass and other 
plants. In the centre of this place we kindled a fire of 
driftwood. We then lay down, covered with blankets, 
near the edge of the bushes. As my exertions through 
the day had been slight, I was not much fatigued, so in- 
stead of sleeping, gazed at the moon, which was only in 
the first quarter, and at the objects below, on which she 
threw a faint light. The air was so calm that the leaves 
of the surrounding scrub scarcely moved. The smoul- 
dering fire threw a feeble light upon the fanlike leaves 
of the sun palmetto which grew beneath the taller 
bushes. 
This night the scene was peaceful; hut as I contem- 
plated it I remembered that three hundred and five years 
before »ne of the most bloody tragedies that the sun 
ever looked upon was perpetrated near this spot. In 
1561, a party of French Huguenots had established a 
colony upon the St. John’s, a short distance above its 
mouth. In 1565, this garrison was destroyed by the 
Spaniards under Menendez, and the inhabitants were 
massacred. A fleet of French vessels lying at the mouth 
of the river were forced to fly, and a violent storm aris- 
ing shortly after, one of them was wrecked on the coast, 
some distance below Mantanzas Inlet, and another went 
on shore some miles to the south of this one. Nearly 
all the crews were saved. Those who were nearest the 
city marched north along' the beach until their 
passage was obstructed by the inlet. Here they 
encamped. They were observed by some fisher- 
men, who speedily conveyed the intelligence to 
the Spaniards at St. Augustine. Menendez, who 
had by this time returned from his raid up the St. John’s, 
immediately marched down the beach with a small body 
of men to the opposite side. The French, perceiving 
them drawn up on the shore, sent a man to swim across 
and ask aid, as they were in a starving condition. As- 
sistance was proffered them on condition that they would 
surrender. A boat was given to the messenger, and he 
re-crossed to take counsel with his friends, and soon re- 
turned, bringing some of the leaders. ^leuendez re- 
ceived them kindly, and promised that their lives should 
be spared, and that they should be treated as prisoners 
of war. if they surrendered. After some hesitation, 
they consented. The men were then brought over in 
small parties, and disarmed when they reached the 
shore. Each of these parties were interrogated in turn 
by Menendez himself as to the faith they possessed. 
Nearly all confe.ssed themselves Huguenots. They were 
then led back into the bushes a .short distance, and, in 
spite of tneir prayers and protestations, were brutally 
butchered. -AT but a few. who declared themselves 
Catholics, wr-re thus murdered. Then the Spaniards 
marched back lo the city. 
In a few days, the other crew, among whom was the 
celebrated commander of the French in -America, Jean 
Ribault, marched up the beach, and again Menendez, 
being informed of t’neir arrival, went down to meet 
them. These were decoyed across the inlet in the same 
manner as the other party, and induced to give up their 
arms under the same false promises, only to meet a like 
fate as their unburied brethren. Thus it was that the 
bones of three hundred and fifty Christian men lay 
bleaching upon this lonely island until the kindly ele- 
ments dissolved and mingled them with the earth. 
As I lay there, with this terrible scene passing through 
my mind. I thought that perhaps it was on such a night 
as this, after the fatal day that the red-handed murderers 
marched back to the cit}-, leaving the ghastly corpses 
upon the ground. The same moon shone down then as 
shines to-night, but iis misty light fell upon the pale, 
upturned faces of dead men in every' attitude of woe. 
As I glanced around upon the dark and verdureless sofi 
of the inclosure, the old legend, which says that ‘‘ the 
grass never grows upon the spot whtere the mart 3 ’r's 
blood is shed," suggested the thought that this might be 
the very spot where the dreadful deed was committed. 
TTe had been informed by the captain that no one knew 
the reason why this spot was destitute of vegetation. 
Was this, then, the reason? Had the ground upon 
wjhich these Christians died received the curse of the 
Almighty? I could not rid myself of the impression 
that it was so. As I gazed around in awe, I was startled 
at the resemblance which the prostrate forms of the rest 
of the party, seen in the gloomy light, bore to the corpses 
of the dead. The similitude was heightened by the 
sound of the sea, which seemed like the continuous 
moans of the dying. I soon fell into a troubled sleep, 
from which I was awakened by one of the mail carriers, 
who was on his first trip, and had seldom slept in the 
open air. He was ejaculating excitedl}’ in Minorcan, 
and I could occasionally catch the name of some saint, 
as if he was imploring his protection. I half arose, 
and looking toward him, endeavored to learn the reason 
I listened, and heard nothing except 
squeakings of the cotton rats, 
been unusually noisy all night. 
and were evidenth- the cause of his disquietude. At 
that moment several set up a vociferous clamor, as if 
they were engaged in a free fight, within a few feet of 
the astonished Minorcan, just as he was in the midst of 
a supplication. This was too much for him. Without 
waiting for the saint that he was invoking to lend a 
helping hand, he sprang nimbly to hi.-' feet, and with a 
few bounds cleared tlie space between us, exclaiming 
in terror; “The rattlesnakes I the rattlesnakes ! they 
will eat me!” We endeavored to pacify him, explain 
ingthat they were not; but he gravely shook his head, 
and said: “They were rattlesnakes, for I felt them. " 
Upon inquiry we learned that the little animals had rnii 
across his face, and awakened him; when hearing their 
cries he had, with the ardor of a true Catholic, com- 
menced to call upon the saints. Nothing would induce 
him to lie down again, but he crouched before the fire 
for the remainder of the night. 
■ By day-light we were moving up the river, which i' 
very straight. We. passed the ruins of several houses, 
which, prior to the Indian war, belonged to flourishing 
plantations. The savages destroyed them, and ni>w 
there is not a house on the river, except the residence 
of an old Spanish family on -Anistacias Island. W e met 
several boats containing fishermen, who were going out 
to get a supply for the markets on the following morn- 
ing. As we neared the ancient city we were struck 
with its modern appearance. In the distance it resem- 
bled a Northern sea-port town. About nine o’clock we 
drew up at the only wharf in the place, and landed. It 
was covered with ladies and gentlemen, mostly tourists 
frpm the North, who were enjoying the cool breeze. 
-As the hotels were crowded to overflowing, we for- 
tunately secured a boarding-place with a private family. 
ST. ALGUSTIXE. 
If St. -Augustine looks modem when approached by 
water, its appearance, when viewed from the wharf, 
fully establishes its right to the nameof the Ancient City, 
Directly in front I 3 the Plaza, near which is the market- 
house. Through the trees that cover the public square 
may be seen the white shaft of the monument, which 
stands in the centre, relieved against the red walls of 
the brick Court-house beyond. To the right, and near 
the water, are some of the oldest houses in the place, 
which were built by the Spaniards more than two hun- 
dred years ago. The material used was shell rock. 
They exhibit marks of extreme age, and many of them 
are uninhabited. Beyond these is the church yard, sur 
rounded by high walls, while further on rises the anti 
quated cathedral. Away to the righfr the gray pic 
ture.sque towers and parapets of the old fort rise 
against the back ground of green scrub and blue sky. 
To the left of the Plaza lies the more modern portion 
of the city. The most prominent building in this sec- 
tion is that occupied by the soldiers of the regular army, 
which are quartered here. It was formerly a nunnery, 
but was confiscated by the United States government 
during the war. The large house fronting the Plaza, 
which is used as the head-quarters of the commanding 
officer, was formerly the property of a wealth}- citizen 
who was a rank copperhead. A sea-wall stretches along 
the whole front of the city. This was built by flie gen- 
eral government, between 1835 and 1842, at an expense 
of a hundred thousand dollars, to protect the streets 
from the encroachment of the waves. It is composed 
of granite, which, in some places, rests upon a founda- 
tion formed by the ancient Spanish wall, which was of 
shell rock. It rises to the height of about eight feet, 
and is five feet broad on the top. This being flat forms 
an excellent promenade, and is used for this purpose by 
all classes, especially on moonlight evenings. On this 
side of the town lies the beautiful Lagoon, called by 
the Spaniards the River of Dolphines. Farther to the 
eastward may be seen the green-topped beach-ridge, and 
upper end of Anistacias Island, upon which is a light- 
house. Beyond this the cerulean water® of the Atlantic 
stretch away in the distance until they merge into the 
clearer blue of the sky. The whole forms a beautiful 
picture, unlike any .within the borders of the United 
States. 
Passing up into the town we find that the streets are 
narrow, and partly shaded with the curious overhanging 
balconies with which the houses are provided. These 
buildings are all quite ancient, and the balconies give 
them a foreign appearance. ' It’hile wandering through 
the streets beneath them, and observing that they were 
generally occupied by the female portion of the family, 
we were forcibly reminded of the olden days of Spain, 
when the gay troubadour, inspired by the tender pas- 
sion. trolled forth some ditty expressive of his love. 
of this outbreak. 
' the familiar 
f They had 
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