SOUTHERN CULTIVATOR. 
87 
ter how erroneous, rather than give place to an improved 
one. 
When, therefore, we Ijave a practice recommended as 
essential to the growth and productiveness ot the vine in 
Europe, as equally befitting our climate, though in direct 
variance with our own experience, we shall always ad- 
vance and propagate our own opinions, even at the risk 
of their being called ‘ new.” 
First, then, we are entirely opposed to the system of 
close pruning, so rigidly adhered to, even in this country 
of heat and sunshine, by most of our culturists with Euro- 
pean experience. This class of culturists grow grapes 
here, and often very good grapes, but seldom equalling 
those grown under a less rigid system of pruning. In 
this view of the subject, the result of our own direct ex- 
perience again, we are not alone; and it is gratifying to 
know that our opinions, however much they may differ 
from those who remain true to ancient usage, are never- 
theless corroborated by those of far more extended expe- 
rience than our own. 
The Hon. A. G. Semmes, of Florida, an amateur cul- 
turist of foreign grapes, says: “I train my vines on trellis 
from seven to eight feet high — of wire — but cannot follow 
the rigid system of pruning recommended in European 
culture, and practiced at the North. We have to so train 
our vines, that not a ray of sunshine ever touches the 
fruit ; otherwise, the /ruit loses much of its fine flavor, 
and is altogether robbed of its bloom, which, if it does not 
preserve its flavor, at least adds to its beauty.” On an- 
other occasion he says : “ The close pruning for out door 
culture, adopted in Europe, and the Eastern States par- 
ticularly, will not answer for this climate. The reason is 
very obvious. On account of the heat and duration of 
our summers, a vine here under proper culture, will, in 
twelve months, grow as much as a vine in England will 
in four years.” And we believe this remark as applica- 
ble to California as Florida. — After a vine has become 
established — say after the first fruit year — if healthy, it 
should be pruned back not exceeding one-half, and often- 
times not more than one third, of that year’s growth, un- 
less it be the smaller lateral shoots. This will secure a 
sufficient foliage to protect the fruit from the rays of the 
sun; for unlike other fruit, it is all-important that the 
grape be entirely shaded at every stage of its growth and 
maturity; otherwise, if it escape the rot, it will be small, 
hard and insipid. The natural shade and protection of 
the fruit is the foliage, and the more luxuriant this is, the 
greater certainty of fruit of large size and rich flavor 
After several years’ experience with some five hundred 
vines, I have never known an instance in which these 
suggestions did not prove true, both in regard to the na- 
tive and foreign varieties ; especially the latter, on account 
of their thin skin and great delicacy.” 
J. Fiske Allen, in his late treatise on the culture of 
the grape, says : “ It is the established opinion, in vine- 
yard culture, that the best fuit is produced when the vine 
receives the most sun ; not upon the fruit, but upon the 
foiliage.” This fact alone, would mark California as 
being one of the finest grape growing countries in the 
world, a suitable soil and proper culture alone remaining 
to demonstrate its truthfulne^s Experiment has proven 
the former to be all that could be desired, leaving proper 
culture the only matter upon which a doubt can rest ; and 
this can only be resolved oy years of practical experience. 
We have introduced the foregoing, lourhing upon the 
culture of the grape in Florida, believing that the climate 
of that State is more nearly similar to ours, than that of 
any other section of the Atlantic States, if we except 
Texas. 
We wull now take the vine at two year’s growth 
from the seed or bud, and one year from the ordinary 
cutting. In the followung autumn or wintfr, cut oM ba^k 
to three well developed buds. From this time onward 
year by year, the pruning and trimming will depend upon 
the mode — for there are many — to be adopted, and the 
fancy of the culturist; but as California bids fair to be- 
come largely grape producing, counting here acres of 
vineyards by thousands, we shall in the present article 
speak only of that mode which we believe best adapted to 
open, vineyard, field culture on the largest scale. 
Almost every cultivator has an apparent reason for 
the distance at which he plants his vines, and hardly any 
two agree. Give each vine a stake six feet in height above 
ground, of the most durable wood possible to be procured. 
With your vine pruned back to three eyes as before stated, 
train the upper shoot to the stake as it advances in growth, 
to a hight of two feet only ; then allow it to bend over 
and spread as it may ; this checks its over exuberent 
growth, shades the fruit better, and is preferable to pinch- 
ing off or cutting back; and should it set more than one 
bunch of grapes, pinch them off. The two lower buds 
we would allow to grow as they might, without training 
up at all, each with its single bunch only. No summer 
pruning, cutting or shortening would we give, except 
pinching off the laterals that might appear from the first 
five or six joints only. Upon this head, the summer short- 
ening, checking or cutting in of the vine, we had thought 
of saying nothing at the present lime ; but good authori- 
ties are so thickly strewn upon our table, almost speak- 
ing themselves into notice, that we conclude to make a 
quotation or two now, not knowing when we may renew 
the subject. H. "VV. S. Cleveland, of Burlington, N. J., 
ctltivates an extensive vineyard, “ and is increasing it 
largely.” He says: “ Formerly, I used to be careful in 
my summer pruning, but after experiment, I was con- 
vinced that the vines are best let alone; that all the leaves 
are needed for ripening the fruit” Dr. Sidney Weller, of 
North Carolina, in an article originally written for De 
Bow’s Commercial Review, also says : “ The principle 
of allowing the vine to spread and range freely, during 
summer is undoubtedly, correct.” And J. Fiske Allen, as 
good authority as we have in the United States, says : “It 
is what I have recommended for many years.” We might 
multiply authorities upon this point, but enough has been 
shown to prove, that however well the summer practice 
of shortening, checking thegrowth or cutting-in may 
apply to a European growth of the vine, practice, experi- 
ment and experience has proven it not adapted to Amcri- 
ican culture. 
We will proceed to prune for the second bearing 
year, by shortening the upright shoot down to four, five 
or six buds, depending upon the strength of the vine; to 
those of weaker growth, of course a lesser number than 
to the stronger, and cut back tlfC two lower shoots to two 
or three buds each, and then let the trimming for the sum- 
mer be precisely the same as the previous year ; and let 
the pruning of subsequent years be the same continued 
till the top of the stake is reached, or the vine has ac- 
quired the desired height. You will then have a strong 
standard trunk, surrounded with fruit spurs and bearing 
wood from bottom to top, but for several years requiring 
the stake to sustain it in its upright position. We have 
already extenr'ed our article to a much greater length 
than we intended, but the importance of the subject 
seemed to call for all that we have written, and much 
more might be s lid. 
Cabbages. — To prevent the growth of long shanks, and 
secure true, solid heids on those stalks that manifest a- dis- 
position to drow to what are commonly known as long 
“shanks.” The Genesee Farmer a: 
“Take a pen-duif-. and stab it through the stalk about 
t’le middle; insert a small piece of wood to keep the 
incision open, whi h wi'l check the growth. By doing 
thi'j, a good head of cabbage may be secured on every stalk.” 
