SOUTHERN CULTIVATOR. 
341 
DEVEREUX, OHIO AXD EENOIR GRAPES. 
Editors Southern Cultivator — In the October nam- 
ber of the Cultivator is the remark: “The Devereux, 
Ohio and Lenoir are nearly, if not altogether, the same.” 
As our common friend, R. Peters, of Atlanta, and myself 
have been at some pains to get at the truth of this matter, 
there having been great confusion hitherto, we will give 
you the results of our investigations. In order to be abso- 
lutely certain, Mr. Peters sent to the old Devereux place 
for cuttings from the original vine, and I have sent twice 
to Montgomery, Ala., for cuttings and vines of the grape 
there cultivated as Devereux. We have come to the fol- 
lowing conclusions : 
1. That there is no really distinct Devereux Grape, the 
one cultivated under' that name at Montgomery and sent 
to our Pomological Exhibition and described in our report 
being the Ohio, grown in unusually favorable circum- 
stances, and the original vine, cultivated by Devereux 
himself, being identical with the Lenoir. 
2. The Lenoir and Ohio are totally distinct Grapes. 
They differ in season — the Ohio being two weeks later 
than Lenoir. They differ, also, in their habit of bearing, 
— the. Ohio being an enormous bearer and, like most 
grapes of that character, very subject to rot, ■while the 
Lenoir always bears a good, but never an extraordinary 
crop, and, so far as I know, never rots. The wood of the 
two vines differ — Lenoir being longer jointed and the 
bark of a peculiar shade of red, rendering it easy to dis- 
tinguish it in winter from any other vine. They differ in 
leaf, also — the leaves of the Lenoir being not generally 
lobed, while those of Ohio are always distinctly so. 
These are, perhaps, points enough to mention ; but 1 
will add, that the Ohio is scarcely worthy to be retained 
in culture, while the Lenoir is not surpassed in value by 
any Grape we have at this time in general cultivation. 
Yours respectfully, 
Wm. N. White. 
Athens, Ga., Oct. L 1859. 
THE PEACH BORER — A SURE REMEDY. 
Editors Southern Cultivator In reading the 
articles in your valuable mon'hly, I am struck with the 
inquiries made how to get rid of that troublesome little 
animal (I have never seen one) called the Borer {JEgeria 
ezitosa), that destroys our peach trees. Common, sense 
indicates the only effectual remedy. The Borer deposits 
the egg in the peach tree at, or about, the surface of the 
earth, the heat and moisture causes the egg to hatch, and 
then commences the destruction to fine fruit and to the 
tree. For twenty-six years I have always had a fine 
orchard and never have any gum exuding from the trees 
or fruit. 
My plan of preventive is very simple, but certain, and 
whoever will not take the trouble to try it, does not de- 
serve to have good fruit. Remove the earth from the body 
of the tree about three or four inches deep ; have some 
strips of cotton osnaburgs about 6 or 7 inches wide, wrap 
these about three or four thicknesses about the body of 
the tree, touching the earth and tie a piece of string lightly 
around the top of the cloth, which will be three or four 
inches above the level of the ground ; replace the earth 
taken from the body of the tree and your work is done 
and your tree effectually protected from the borer. 
I have been asked how often should this be repeated 
As often as you find the cloth decayed. If the seasons 
are very wet and hot, the osnaburgs will decay quicker 
than in dry seasons. My rule is to examine every tree in 
the orchard as soon as they have all the fruit gathered 
from them; and, from 25 years experience, I have never 
had a borer in the trees that are managed in this way. 
when a few that have been intentionally left without the 
wrapping, have suffered from the borer. 
Hoping these hints may be useful to some of your cor- 
respondents, 
I am, very respectfully, yours, 
H. F. Grant. 
Sedgemoor, Glynn County, Ga., August 16, 1859, 
Wild Grape Vines in Louisiana,— So numerous are 
wild grape vines in North Louisiana, that the Louisiana 
Baptist advises the making of communion wine from 
them instead of purchasing adulterated material for this 
purpose. 
Silk Cotton. — The Galveston iVew's says Col. David 
Randon has handed us a sample of his “silk cotton,” of 
this year’s growth. It is certainly a very superior article, 
and in length and fineness of staple, ranks next to Sea 
Island, and is quite equal to the lower grades of Sea Island, 
We have heretofore noticed this cotton. The first raised 
by Col. R. was sold in this market at SI 00 per bale, and 
the next at 17 cents per pound. This year he has three 
hundred acres in this cotton, and we understood from 
him that it is coming into general use, 
g^°All subscriptions to the Southern CultivoJor com- 
mence with the January number, 
PRUNING AND TRILUMING THE GRAPE. 
We append the following brief directions (with dia- 
grams) for Pruning the Grape, premising that much must 
yet be left to the judgment and discretion of the cultivator 
— the differences which are caused by soil, the greater or 
less vigor of different varieties, &c,, &c., making it im- 
possible to lay down a system that will apply in o2l cases. 
We are indebted to a useful little manual by Josiah 
Salter, Esq , of Rochester, N. Y., for most of the infor- 
mation which we give below. We will, also, give, in our 
nexb in full, the method of our friend, A. de Caradsuc, 
Esq , as set forth in his essay on “Grape Culture in the 
South.” 
It will be understood that we start with the second year 
from the planting of the Vineyard, when the pruning 
properly commences : 
treatment of vines the second year, 
presuming the young vines to have been carefully tend- 
ed during the first summer’s growth, they will, at the end 
of the season, have 
^pioduced strong canes 
three to ten feet in 
length, and will pre- 
sent somewhat the ap- 
pearance of fig. 1. The 
fall is the time to prune, 
and in mild seasons, 
the month of Novem- 
ber or December will 
be the best period In 
pruning this year, the 
vines must be cut down to the lowest 
round, plump bud, within two to four 
inches of the ground, as represented in 
fig. 2. Set the edge of the knife at 
the back of the bud, and at one inch' 
above it, and take it off at one cleaji cut. Fig. 2. 
As soon as the w'eeds begin to grow, the soil will wan 
