SOUTHERN CULTIVATOR. 
125 
North Carolina, South Carolina and Georgia. In this 
county, it is not unusual for them to measure from 5 to 
5}4 inches in diameter, fair, smooth, and “beautiful to 
look at,” in flavor equal, if not superior, to any I have 
ever met with. The tree is vigorous, and hardy, but re- 
quires to be cut down to the ground every 6 or 8 years, 
and throw up a new shoot, which tends to the improve- 
ment of the quality of the fruit. 
In the cultivation of Plums, but little has yet been done 
towards ordinary success, from the cause referred to above, 
namely, the almost general presence of the curculio, or 
plum weevil, which stings the entire crop, causing it to 
fall prematurely from the trees, and for the depredations 
of which no mitigation has been discovered. Occasional 
ly a spot is found exempt from them, but no cause has yet 
been ascertained for this partial exception; both sandy 
and clay lands being equally attacked. 
The finest Cherries, both “Hearts” and “Bigarreaus,” 
thrive and promise to do well when engrafted upon the 
“Mahaleb” or “Perfumed cherry” stock. When worked 
upon the “Mazzard” stock, which is most generally used 
at the North, the trunk invariably splits when from two 
to four years old, causing the tree soon to decay and die. 
When engrafted upon the Mahaleb stock the tree is dwarf- 
ed and of slower growth. 'I'his fruit is annually becom- 
ing more and more cultivated, and only needs to be more 
generally known to be properly appreciated. I am not 
aware that any experiments have been made to originate 
new varieties here, although no species with us is more 
worthy of attention, and would probably more amply re- 
pay for all care and expense bestowed on its culture. 
Of the Fig, I need say but little, as it is a fruit peculiar 
to the South. There is no good reason why large quanti- 
ties should not be raised f »r exportation to the Northern 
cities in the fresh ripe state, and also for preserving and 
packing dry. The trees grow with little care and pro- 
duce two fine crops in a season. Quite a number of varie- 
ties are cultivated here, upon the qualities of which vari- 
ous opinions prevail as to their merits and faults. 
The only distinctive feature in the cultivation of fruit 
trees here, in general, from that prevailing in the North, 
is the necessity of permitting them to branch out near the 
ground, say from one to two feet from the earth. This 
treatment or training, forms a protection from the sun’s 
rays upon the trunk, which, when exposed by trimming 
off the lower branches, is frequently blistered by the in 
tense heat. Another benefit derived from this mode of 
culture, is the ground immediately about the root being 
better shaded, and consequently more enriched by decay- 
ing vegetable matter there collected, as well as preventing 
the stimulating effect of the solar heat upon the roots ; 
which induces an over-pjmduction of wood, and conse- 
quent decay of the fruit ^fore it arrives at maturity. — 
Patent Office Report. 
TRANSPLANTING EVERGREENS. 
'‘What is Home without a” Shade Tree. 
Editors Southern Cultivator— So much has been 
said and written on transplanting shade trees, that even 
at the risk of being considered green, I must say a few 
words on putting out that most beautiful of all evergreens, 
the Cedar. 
In the first place be sure that the tree is not dead before 
you put it out, for it is quite essential that it is a live tree 
on which you are expending your labor. If you purcha.se 
from negroes in the streets you may be certain that you 
have lost just the amount paid out. The better way is for 
you to see the trees taken from the ground ; but if this is 
not convenient, send a trusty servant, with particular in- 
structions that no tree be pulled up, but every one care- 
fully taken up with the spade; and if they have to be 
brought any distance, let the roots be protected from the 
sun, not forgetting, when they arrive, to cover them well 
with earth if you are not ready to commence planting. 
It is bad policy to keep a tree out of ground a7iy length 
of time. Examine every tree, and all those found to have 
any injured roots should be carefully pruned in proportion 
to the injury the roots may have sustained, keeping in 
view the future appearance of tJie tree ; let all the bruised 
roots be also removed with a sharp knife. The next thing 
in order, is the making of the holes. These should be suf- 
ficiently large to allow the roots perfect freedom, for if you 
have to bend them to make them fit, you might as well 
prepare tomb-stones for your trees. Now, in setting your 
tree, be sure that you do not put it deeper than it grew in 
the woods. In filling the hole, I throw in a few spades full 
of sand, on one side of the tree— near this, I put the same 
quantity of rotted vegetable manure, finishing with the 
surface soils taken from the hole, pressing the whole gent- 
ly with the foot. A little water thrown in before you 
commence pressing will be of some benefit. When the 
hot season sets in, you must give frequent watering. A 
heavy coat of pine straw around the trees at this season 
must not be neglected. I have pursued the method re- 
commended for several years and have never failed, but 
no negro can set out a tree for me. I have planted Magno- 
lias, Hollies, and other trees supposed to be “hard to make 
live,” with the same success. The present is a good time 
to put out Cedars. Respectfully, V. La Taste. 
Cedar Green, near Augusta, Ga , March, 1856. 
To Produce Large Fruit. — A correspondent of the 
Gardeners^ Gazette says, that by a very simple and easy 
process, fruits of all kinds may be raised one-third larger 
than is usually the case, and of greatly improved quality. 
The secret consists in supporting the fruits, so that they 
shall notbe allowed to hang their whole weight upon the 
stalk, or to twist about. in the wind. The Gazette states 
that when the fruit is allowed to hang naturally upon the 
stalk, the increasing weight strains the stem, or twig, and 
thus lessens the quantity of nutritious food flowing to the 
fruit. The fruit may be supported either by tying it to a 
branch with a piece of matting, or by enclosing it in a 
small net. Flowers, such as dahlias or peonies, may also 
be rendered larger by the adoption of this system. 
Mulching Young Fruit Trees. — Messrs. Editors— 
“Many a little makes a mickle,” and perhaps the mite of 
information I have to communicate will help a little to- 
wards swelling the aggregate of the Farm-. JouruaVs use- 
fulness. 
A neighbor of mine, who for several years had been 
unsuccessful in his plantings of apple trees, was induced, 
at my suggestion, to try mulching His trees were plant- 
ed early in the spring, and almost immediately after 
planting, were mulched to a depth of 3 or 4 inches with 
long barnyard manure. The manure was applied to a 
somewhat greater distance around the tree than the roots 
were likely to extend themselves, and the result was what 
I anticipated ; the trees, without a single exception, grew 
finely, although the method of planting and treatment 
(mulching excepted) were precisely the same as used 
in the case of the former planting, when all his trees died. 
My own experience corresponds with that of my neigh- 
bor’s, and there is little doubt that were mulching more 
generally practiced, there would be fewer failures of young 
orchards. 
Where it is found inconvenient to apply long barnyard 
manure, plain straw, leaves, or even corn stalks, will 
answer an excellent purpose. E Lukens, 
\in Farm Journal. 
Gloucester County, ^JS. J., 1856. 
