devoted exclusively to the improvement of southern agricolture. 
VOL. xrv. 
AUGUSTA, GA., SEPTEMBER, 1856. 
NO. 9. 
WILLIAM S. 
JONES, Publisher. DANIEL LEE, M. D., 
AND D. REDMOND, Editors* 
o:^ SEE TERMS ON LAST PAGE. 
^ktttEtinE (Binttnm^ Eitit SEisttlUnij, 
WORK FOR THE MONTH— (SEPTEMBER,) 
THE PLANTATION. 
Cotton, now beginning to open fully, must be gathered 
without delay. Avoid picking immediately after a shower, 
lest the lint should be dirty. See that your Gin and Press 
are in complete order, and send no Cotton to market that 
has not received the most careful handling throughout. 
Coto Peas should be gathered and put away during the 
brief intervals of leisure from cotton picking. The vines 
of late planted Peas may also be cut when the pod is just 
forming, and cured for hay. 
Corn may be cut up and saved as directed in our last, 
page '234. 
Winter Oats, Rye, Barley, Clover and Lncernc may 
be sown the latter part of this month. 
Turnips ior -d. fall crop, must now be sown, without 
delay. The Ruta Baga, Yellow Aberdeen, Norfolk, Early 
Flat Dutch, Globe and Strap Leaf Red Top Turnips are all 
valuable varieties — the two first being the best for stock 
and long keeping. 
Hay. — In addition to the Corn-stalk and unpulled fod- 
der spoken of in our last (page 234), Sweet Potato vines 
and the top of Pindars make a tolerable rough forage, if 
cut and cured before they begin to wither. All Crab 
Grass, Crowfoot and other grasses must be cut when in 
blossom, and carefully cured, with as little exposure to 
the sun as possible, to be of any value for hay. The dried 
up and withered grass pvlled for hay late in the sea- 
son, is almost utterly valueless. . 
U'et lands may now be drained, woodlands prepared 
for pasturage, weeds and brush grubbed up, &c., &c., as 
directed heretofore. 
Winter Forage..— a green crop, try Wheat, sown 
thick in 3 foot drills, on deeply plowed and rich land. It 
will give your animals green food nearly all winter, bear- 
ing repeated cuttings. 
THE GARDEN. 
Turnips, of all kinds if not already sown, must be put 
in without delay. (See directions in August number, ia 
regard to this and other gardening operations.) 
STRAWBERRY BEDS 
May now be prepared and the plants set out any time 
during the fall or winter. A cool moist soil, rich in veget- 
able matter, suits this fruit best, in our sultry climate. 
Spade or trench' plow the ground as deeply as possible,, 
turning under a plentiful supply of swamp muck, decom- 
posed leaves, wood ashes, pulverized charcoal, and a little 
well rotted stable manure. Harrow or rake the surface 
until it is perfectly fine and even, and set your plants in 
3 foot rows, 1 foot to 18 inches in the row. When the 
plants are well rooted, cover the entire surface of the 
ground with partially decomposed forest leaves, only per- 
mitting the plants to be exposed. By this method, with 
an occasional watering in dry weather (and the proper 
selection of varieties) this delicious and healthy fruit may 
be raised abundantly during 3 or 4 months in the year, for 
family use and for market. It can be safely transported 
300 miles per railroad, and has even been sent from Georgia 
to New York, in excellent condition. It is, in all respects, 
one of our most attractive and profitable fruit crops, and 
we hope it will receive increased attention hereafter. Our 
six choicest varieties are Hovey's Seedling, McAvoifs Su- 
perior, LongiforW s Prolific, Walkers Seedling, Crimsoiu 
Cone and a nameless plant of the Hanihois class, com- 
mon in this vicinity. McAvofis Extra Red, the Crescent 
Seedling, Bloxk Prince, lotoa, Jenny Lind, Scott’s Seed- 
ling, and other varieties, are also valuable for amateurs. 
THE FRUIT ORCH.4RD. 
New land, elevated and not too rich, is most suitable for 
Fruit Growing, and we offer the following plan for speedily 
replacing a forest with a fine and productive Peach or Apple 
orchard : Cut off all woodand brush very clean, early in the 
fall, burning to ashes all the logs that you cannot remove. 
Then stake off your land the proper distances, and dig 
holes SIX FEET .ACROSS AND TWO FEET DEEP, throwing the 
surface mould on one side and the subsoil on the other. 
Rake into the bottom of the hole a bushel or more of the 
surrounding loose earth, leaves, &c. — fill up to the proper 
height with the surface soil first thrown out, and plant 
your tree carefully, heaping up the subsoil in the form of 
a mound about the trunk and. over the roots, to allow for 
