VoL. IV 
AUGUSTA, GA., OCTOBER, 1846. 
No. 10. 
iBlontl)lg (Eaienbar. 
Altered from the Aynerieav, Agriculturist's Almanac for 
1841, and arranged to suit the Southern States. 
CALEiNOAR FOR OCTOBER. 
[The following brief hints to the farmer, planter and 
gardener, will be found to apply not only to the month 
unddr which they are arranged, but, owing to diversity 
of seasons, climate and soils, they may frequently an- 
swer for other months This precaution the consider- 
ate agriculturist will not fail to notice and apply in all 
cases where his judgment and experience may dictate.] 
October is an important month for the farmer 
in the colder part of the Southern States. In 
this, he has to collect his roots, apples, co'^n, 
and store them up for safe-keeping ihrbush the 
winter. Secure sugar beei and mangol-wurizel 
before heavy frosts occur. Very light frosts 
do not injure them while in the ground. They 
should be perfectly matured, or they will afford 
less nutrition. Thi^ maybe known by some of 
their leaves turning yellow. If allowed to re- 
main beyond this time, there is a new elabora- 
tion of their juices, and much of the saccha- 
rine principle, which is the fattening one, isde- 
stroyedr Turnips and parsnips may be left till 
in danger of freezing in the ground, and the lat- 
ter, if not wanted for winter use, are better for 
remaining till spring. In this case, all the water 
must be carefully led away from the beds, or 
they will rot. Potatoes are ripe when the vines 
are decayed, and they should never be dug be- 
fore. All roots ought to be protected from the 
sun after digging, by throwing over them some 
of the leaves or straw, and as soon as the dirt 
attached to them is dried, carry them at once to 
the cellar or pit. Too little care is used in stor- 
ing roots. The air ought to be carefully kept 
from them, by putting them in barrels loosely 
covered, or in bins well guarded by straw or 
turf, and they are still better lor having light 
mould or sand sifted into the interstices. Such 
as are stored in the fields, may be placed in pits, 
where the ground is dry and sandy, somewhat 
excavated below the surface, and piled above it 
to the height required. A coating of straw must 
first be laid over them, carefully thatched over 
the heap like shingles, to carry off any water 
that may leak through the exterior covering of 
earth, which may be added to the depth of a few 
inches, just sufficient to prevent injury from 
early frosts. The covering for winter need not 
be completed fill later, as by leaving the earth 
loose, the escape of moisture from the roots is 
facilitated, as well as the gases, which are gen- 
erated by the partial heating and curing of the 
roots, which takes place when they are thrown 
into heaps soon after they have been dug. 
When finally covered over for the winter, a 
hole on the top should be left, or several, if the 
pit be a long one, in which, a wisp of siraw 
must be placed, which will allow the escape of 
all moisture and gas. If the ground is a stiff 
clay, the roots must be placed on the surface of 
the ground, and a ditch dug on every side, one 
foot below them, so as to carry off" all the wa- 
ter; otherwise, the lower strata will be spoiled 
by the water retained on the surface. 
Winter apples ought to be carefully picked 
by hand, and placed in bins or barrels, and en- 
tirely excluded from the air. They should oc- 
cupy a dry, cool cellar, or upper room, in which 
the temperature is not below the freezing point. 
If they should become frozen, they must be 
kept covered and allow the frost to escape gra- 
dually, when the effect will be scarcely percept- 
ible ; yet when this occurs, they do not keep as 
long in good flavor as if untouched by frost. If 
you have clay land, much of the plo wing for the 
following sp ing may be done in this month, 
throwing it into high furrows as much as pos- 
sible, If there be no demand for your fall ap- 
ples, they are worth much more to teed to stock, 
swine and cattle, than for cider ; dispose of all 
in this way but such as are wanted tor the win- 
ter use. 
Secure your winter squashes and pumpkins 
by placing them in a dry, cool place, and you 
may have the luxury of good vegetable and 
pumpkin pies during the winter. All the garden 
seeds should be carelully selected and placed 
beyond the reach of decay and vermin. Pre- 
pare all your supernumerary stock for market; 
cull out your choicest animals for breed and use, 
and sell and fat the remainder. Be careful to 
avoid an overstock for winter. One half the 
animals well kept, will yield more profit than 
the whole half kept. Set out trees tor the en- 
suing spring. They, may be transplanted any 
time after the sap has ceased to Sow, which oc- 
curs when the buds are fully developed, and the 
leaves fallen. This is the proper lime to cut 
wood for the year. Fuel cut from July till No- 
vember is more valuable than if prepared at 
any other season. It not convenient to draw it, 
let it remain on the ground. 
Timber cut duringthese months is also much 
more durable, noiv.'iihstanding the popular opi- 
nion to the contrary. 
Kitchen Garden. —K.QS.'p the crops of spinach 
entirely clean ; they can now be thinned out, 
leaving the plants lour or five inches apart. 
Lettuces for early spring use should be treated 
in the same way. Those for late fall use should 
be transferred to frames, and protected from 
frost during the night. The same mode can be 
adopted with cabbage plants for fall and winter 
use. During the latter part of the month cut 
down the aspaiagus tops, and give the bed a 
coat of well rotted stable manure to the depth of 
two or three inches. This can be done, howev- 
er, as well next month. 
If hemp is wanted for early breaking, spread 
it out this month for dew-rotting. The lint, 
however, is whiter and better to defer it till 
December tor latitudes below 40°; a higher 
latitude, November is the best month. 
Fruit Garden and Orchard. — Continue pro- 
pagating by layers and cuttisgs; plant beds of 
strawberries that may have been omitted last 
month. They will be less likely to suffer from 
the heat of the ensuing summer, than if planted 
in the spring. Most kinds of hardy fruit and 
forest trees, may now be trimmed and cleared of 
lateral shoots and suckers. All kinds of hardy 
deciduous trees and shrubs can be transplanted 
this month as soon as they have shed their 
leaves. Fall planting is preferable for good 
sized trees, as during the winter they can firmly 
establish themselves, and be ready to throw out 
sufficient roots in the spring to withstand the 
heats of summer. Small seedlings had better 
be left till spring, as they are liable to be thrown 
out of the ground by the frost in winter. 
Flower Garden and Pleasure Grounds. — About 
the middle or latter end of the month plant tu- 
lips, hyacinths, &c. Select a warm, mellow 
soil, and let it be highly manured with well rot- 
ted compost. 
The ranunculus and anemone can now be 
planted, and all other varieties of bulbous and 
tuberous rooted flowers. Seeds of bulbous and 
tuberous rooted flowers can now be sown to ob- 
tain new varieties. Continue to transplant pe- 
rennial and biennial flower roots. Plant some 
bulbous roots in flower pots for winter bloom- 
ing. The latter part of the month, pot your ten- 
der roses and everything else that requires pro- 
tection in the winter, and have them ready to 
move in on the sudden afiproach of any cold 
weather. Flowering and ornamental shrubs 
can now be found and also propagated by lay- 
ers, cuttings and suckers. The latter part of 
this month new pleasure grounds may be form- 
ed and all hardy deciduous trees may be trans- 
planted, as soon as they have shed their leaves. 
Live hedges can uow be planted. Continue to 
mow your lawns, clean the gravel walks, cut 
and carry away all weeds, decayed flower 
stems, fallen leaves, &c., and prepare ground 
for spring planting. 
Plantaiion.— To the sugar planter, as well as 
the cotton grower, October and November are 
the most important months in the year. To the 
cotton grower, the work ot these months will be 
nearly the same as that of September; astothe 
sugar planter, it will claim hisspecial attention. 
In the early part of October, lei him commence 
and get everything in readiness for cutting and 
grinding his cane. Repair the roads leading 
from the cane fields to the mill, if necessary ; 
put yourcarts and yokes in order ; procure and 
sharpen the knives or hooks for cutting the 
cane; see that the mill or rollers are properly 
geared, well oiled, and are clean. If your busi- 
rtess will warrant it, procure by all means a 
steam engine, rather than use horses or mules 
in grinding. See that the kettles are well set, 
and that the flues are strong and cleared of filth. 
Put in order the coolers, and all minor imple- 
ments used in the operations. Also prepare 
barrels or hogsheads for filtering; and look to 
the gutters or conductors for conveying the jui- 
ces or syrups, and see that they are tight, and 
properly fitted to your work. Draw and split 
fuel lor boiling if it has not been done before. 
By the last of October, in ordinary seasons, 
more or less ot the cane attains its usual matu- 
rity in Florida and Louisiana. When this pe- 
riod arrives, the first thing to be done, is to pro- 
vi e for future crops. Give early attention to 
the saving of seed, on Jitconnt of the injury 
which seed cane receives by Irost, and w’hich is 
liable to occur before the middle of November. 
The general rule observed in saving cane for 
planting, is to reserve such a portion of the 
crop as is the least ■ valuable for grinding. 
Hence, those fields which have produced cane 
from the same stubble for two, three or four 
years, and which now require, from the stinted 
growth they produce, to be replanted with cane 
or some other crop, are selected to furnish seed 
canes. The cane's from such fields are small 
and short, having the joints nearer together, 
each of which sends up shoots called rattoons. 
One acre of such rattoons is sufficient in ordi- 
nary cases, for the planting of three A'-'ccs ol 
land. They are cut near the ground anc^’artcd 
to the vicinity ot the fields where they ai^to be 
planted out, and then formed, when not planted 
as soon as cut, into long beds, about fiffeen feet 
wide, which are called matlresses. These are 
made by commencing at one end ol the bed and 
placing a row of canes, with their tops on, 
across it— the tops directed outward. Upon 
