S OUT KEEN CULTIVATOK. 
3S 
TEANSPLANTING FRinT TREES, ROSES, SHRUBS 
AND EVERGREENS. 
Messrs. Summer & Crammond, of the Pomaria (S. C.) 
Nurseries, furnish the following excellent practical hints 
and directions on this important subject. We quote from 
the Columbia Scmth Carolinian of a recent date: 
A tree should never be taken up whilst it will visibly 
shrink upon removal. We have no criterion in the drop- 
ping of the leaves of the forest trees, as the origin of forest 
trees is so various, that many kinds require a certain de- 
gree of cold to stop their growth. Young nursery trees, 
too, being well cultivated, hold their leaves longer and 
grow more luxuriantly than fruit- bearing trees in orch- 
ards— so the proper time to transplant is, whenever the 
juices of the tree become inactive. A dry summer, with 
an extreme degree of heat, followed by a delightful and 
seasonable autumn, prolonged into the heart of winter, 
has, with us, added a third more wood of late growth to 
trees, and has, at the same time, delayed the season for 
transplanting. 
In ISouth Carolina, we find no difficulty in transplanting 
trees and shrubbery from November 25 to as late in the 
spring as we can retard the leaves. Trees should never 
be touched when the soil is frozen. The milder and drier 
the weather in winter, the better the success will be had. 
We dig our holes, after plowing the land, as deep as we 
can ; twelve inches deep, and at least five feet in diam- 
eter. We half fill these holes with good, rich vegetable 
compost, broken bones, &c., and then place the tree in its 
proper position, the earth in the hole being a little more 
elevated immediately under the trunk. We then place 
the roots so that they are arranged in every part of the 
hole, when it is filled up carefully with a similar compost. 
The tree should not be planted more than one inch deeper 
than it stood in the nursery. When the hole is about three 
parts filled, we pour gently around the stem about five 
gallons of water, after which the operation is finished by 
completely filhng it up, and making a slight mound around 
the trunk. We never pack in the earth around a tree, as 
the watering will consolidate it sufficiently around the 
roots to make it grow. This watering will be all the tree 
will require, if it be properly mulched with leaves, straw, 
saw-dust, or old tan-bark. If trees have been long out of 
the ground, the roots should be well soaked six hours be- 
fore planting, and we have frequently revived such as 
were to all appearance dead, by burying them entirely in 
the earth for ten days, after having restored vitality to 
the bark by soaking them in water. The trunks of all 
newly transplanted trees should be protected from the sun. 
A bunch of broom sedge, so common everywhere in the 
South, if properly tied around them, is the very best 
means of doing so. We head in all trees severely, no 
matter how fine the roots may be. Bearing trees should 
be prepared for removal one year previously, by cutting 
in both their heads and roots ; but, at best, the removal of 
large trees in the South is hazardous and unprofitable. 
Stakes to trees are useless. When a tree will not stand 
erect, it should be manured and cut in, till it acquires suf- 
ficient vigor to stand alone. We would as soon think of 
tying a baby to a stake to make it stand, as a tree. The 
knife and food is all a tree requires to keep it erect and 
vigorous. Until newly planted trees are firmly rooted, 
they should be regularly inspected and straightened up. 
When watering is necessary, the earth should be removed 
for a few inches from the tree, and the water poured gently 
around the trunk, till the earth in the vicinity of the 
roots absorbs it. This should be done in the evening to 
be effective, and the small hole made should be carefully 
filled up the next morning by sunrise, with loose mellow 
earth, after which the mulching should be placed around 
the tree. When the buds of a newly planted tree are dor- 
mant and late starting, we have frequently found that an 
additional watering of the limbs and trunk immediately 
roused them into active growth. In fact, by wrapping 
the stem and limbs of a valuable pear tree, the roots of 
which had been destroyed by rats on shipboard, with 
rags, and regularly moistening them, we preserved the 
variety, and induced the tree, which had not a vestige of 
fibrous voots left, to live and flourish. It is now as vigo- 
rous as need be, and its roots have spread as widely as 
its top. 
For transplanting roses, evergreens, and shrubbery, we 
would advise the deep and thorough preparation of the 
soil throughout the whole plat, and then plant much in the 
same manner as dmected above for fruit trees. Roses and 
deciduous shrubs, and such evergreens as do not belong to 
the Conifera and cypress families, should have their heads 
well cut in. The Pinaceoo, embracing the sub-orders 
of Abietex and Oupressex^ and in which are comprised 
the Firs, Cedars, Arborvitae, Cypresses, Larches and all 
resinous evergreen trees, together with the yews, do not 
require much pruning, when transplanted, as it must be 
done when the trees are very small. The Holly, both na- 
tive and foreign, and which under proper culture, is a 
beautiful evergreen tree, requires great cutting in when 
transplanted. All land, before planting trees should be 
thoroughly drained. 
We receive so many queries as to these things, that out 
leisure will not permit us to answer each correspondent 
separately, however m.uch we might be inclined to do so. 
We therefoi’e hastily embody the above hints, and ask the 
newspapers of the South to give them publicity, as matters 
of general interest to their readei's. 
THE SUMACH. 
BY WM, R. PRINCE, FLUSHING, N. Y. 
As a spirit seems now most appropriately awakening 
toward the development of the natural resources of our 
country, we may hope ere long to realize the noblest as- 
pirations of the noblest man our country has produced, 
carried out to a conclusive result by rendering our coun- 
try independent of all foreign supplies of such commodi- 
ties as may be readily produced from our own soil. 
Sumach is one of the articles which we have hitherto 
imported largely, and I therefore send you some explana- 
tory remarks on the subject. The Sicilian Tanner' 
Sumach is a rather tender shrub for any latitude north of 
New York. It would succeed in New Jersey, and to tho 
South of it. 
With regard to our native Sumach, we have four, and 
perhaps five, species that possess a sufficiency of tannin 
to render them valuable for domestic use and for com- 
merce. It will be requisite to test them all, in order to 
select the preferable species foi extensive culture. 
The species found so common in neglected fields and 
along the road-sides, is the Rhus glabrum, producing 
crimson berries in large clusters; and it is this which has 
been already made use of, to some extent— more especial- 
ly in Connecticut and other Eastern States. Its usual 
height is about four and a half feet. 
A taller growing species is also quite common, and is 
the Rhus typhinum. It usually attains the height of ten 
to twelve feet, or more, with small clusters of dingy red 
berries. 
A third species is Rhus copallmuvi, which is quite 
common in dry woods and fields, more especially where 
the soil is sandy. This species has more resemblance to 
the Sicilian Sumach than any other American species, in 
its foliage, and its gray bark and growth. It attains a 
height of seven to eight feet, and produces dull reddish 
berries, in small clusters. I should incline to the belief 
