CHAPTER III. 
ACROSS RUSSIA TO ORENBURG 
A n unbroken railway journey of 1400 miles, the 
distance which separates Orenburg from St. Peters- 
burg, is hardly an unmixed pleasure. Still less is it so 
at a period of the year when rain, snow, and wind take 
away all desire on the part of the traveller to while away 
the time of waiting by promenading the platform ; while 
smoky or overheated stoves make it unpleasant to remain 
in the carriage. 
The four days and nights which it takes to cross 
European Russia in this manner are, however, neither 
long nor dull. After leaving Moscow, there is always 
plenty of room in the train. You can arrange your corner 
of the carriage as comfortably as circumstances will allow, 
and let your gaze wander away over the endless fields and 
steppes of Russia. You may smoke your pipe in perfect 
peace, drink a glass of hot tea now and then, trace the 
progress of your journey on a map, watch how one 
government succeeds another, and while away the time 
generally in conversation. In the dominions of the Tsar 
it is considered the most natural thing in the worl or 
everyone to address his fellow -passengers. ^ If no ot er 
pretext presents itself, you may always begin a conversa 
tion by asking your neighbour’s destination. My e ow 
travellers, in most cases, were going to places m t e 
governments of Ryazan, Penza, and Samara. V on t ey 
asked me in return, where I was going, and were to 
in answer “ Peking,” they were not a little surprise , ai 
often were not quite clear where the place was. ^ 
Endless steppes, arable land, bearded peasants wit 
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