LAKE ARAL TO TASHKEND 
51 
in the winter the cold is seldom severe ; but, on the 
other hand, rain and thick mists are common phenomena. 
At the time of my visit it rained continuously, so that 
in many places the road was covered with broad pools. 
The water splashed and spouted up as the camels tramped 
through it; the conveyance threatened every moment 
to stick fast in the moist, tenacious sand ; and the rain 
pattered ceaselessly on the tilt. When, at nine o’clock 
on the evening of November 23rd, the temperature rose 
THE KIRGHIZ STEPPE, NEAR LAKE ARAL 
to 31° I Fahr. {-o °5 C), the air seemed to be quite 
warm. 
As a rule, the camels were obedient and docile, and 
the driver was able to keep on his seat ; but one or two 
of the teams became cantankerous, and insisted on going 
their own way, so that the postilion was obliged to ride 
the middle animal. The reins are fastened to a piece 
of wood inserted through the nostrils, and in this cruel 
manner the beasts are compelled to obey. 
Strange as it had been to cirive with camels, it was 
with a feelino- of relief that I again saw three black horses 
